Edward Klepeis wrote:
Dear Tom
If you could make the tray out of .125 6061 the reason
being there is alot of welding that has to be done on
this plate and if it is to thin it will
buckel when welded making for a poor mating seal up to the
block.If you have any questions contact me and we can talk.
Reg
ards
Ed
techwelding@comcast.net
Does the separator plate have to be welded to the pan? If it's
just sitting in there sealant would be needed on both sides, but
that shouldn't be a major problem.
Bob White
--
http://www.bob-white.com
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 (soon)
That will work for sure however what we are trying to do here
is kill four birds with one stone.
A: Reshape the oil pan to get more air to a bottom mounted rad.
B: Reduce the weight of the oil pan.
C: provide a rear motor mount bracket.
D: Incorporate an air oil separator plate which you must have anyway.
BTW Tom, is that a computer controlled plasma cutter? If so perhaps
you could cut the other oil pan parts for Ed as well as just the air
oil separator plate. As shown in the this drawing.
Paul Lamar
A, B, and C aren't affected by whether the plate is welded in or not so
why use heavier material so that it can be welded in? Or, lower it
a bit and weld a lighter plate to the inside wall of the pan. It would
only have to be tack welded in a few spots.
The oil separator is a good idea, but since the stock engine doesn't
have one, it must not be _required_. I'm still interested in obtaining
the oil separator plate for use with my stock pan.
Bob White
--
http://www.bob-white.com
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 (soon)
Welding it in does double duty. It serves as the oil pan flange and the
air oil separator. Also it makes the pan much easier to weld as it forms
a flat base. It does not add a lot of weight as there are large holes
in it. A 12 by 14 by .125 aluminum plate weighs 2 pounds to begin
with. Say 1-3/4 pound with holes so you are saving 7/8 of a pound
and adding the weight of the separate flange if you go with a 1/16
air oil separator.
If you tried to make a flange and weld it to the pan much much more
labor would be required and it would be difficult to keep the flange flat.
Furthermore you have half the chances of oil leaking out around the joint
with a one piece pan and air oil separator. Francois found problems with foam
in the oil and as a result had poor oil cooling IMHO. He did not have an air
oil separator plate as far as I can tell.
I know you have a rear motor mount already so you don't need another one.
I don't understand why you just don't buy an air oil separator from racing
Beat and continue to use the stock steel pan. Been available for years.
I assumed you knew that. Jim Mederer of Racing Beat has been recommending
them for a long time. Jim also calls it an Oil Baffle Plate.
Back in 1998 Jim was charging $49. Another good reason for incorporating
it into the pan. Let us know what the current price is if you check?
Perhaps Tom wants to go head to head with Jim on this product
and will sell it for much less :)
The stock engine does not run at 5000 to 5500 for hours on end. Let alone
7500 for 5 minutes on takeoff.
Paul Lamar
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