Welding it in does double duty. It serves as the oil pan flange and
the
air oil separator. Also it makes the pan much easier to weld as it
forms
a flat base. It does not add a lot of weight as there are large holes
in it. A 12 by 14 by .125 aluminum plate weighs 2 pounds to begin
with. Say 1-3/4 pound with holes so you are saving 7/8 of a pound
and adding the weight of the separate flange if you go with a 1/16
air oil separator.

If you tried to make a flange and weld it to the pan much much more
labor would be required and it would be difficult to keep the flange
flat.
Furthermore you have half the chances of oil leaking out around the
joint
with a one piece pan and air oil separator. Francois found problems
with foam
in the oil and as a result had poor oil cooling IMHO. He did not have
an air
oil separator plate as far as I can tell.

I know you have a rear motor mount already so you don't need another
one.
I don't understand why you just don't buy an air oil separator from
racing
Beat and continue to use the stock steel pan. Been available for years.

I assumed you knew that. Jim Mederer of Racing Beat has been
recommending
them for a long time. Jim also calls it an Oil Baffle Plate.
Back in 1998 Jim was charging $49. Another good reason for
incorporating
it into the pan. Let us know what the current price is if you check?

Perhaps Tom wants to go head to head with Jim on this product
and will sell it for much less :)

The stock engine does not run at 5000 to 5500 for hours on end. Let
alone
7500 for 5 minutes on takeoff.

Paul Lamar

Tom Webber wrote:

Right now I'm just happy I've found something I can contribute to the
group.  In the future I'll determine what the cost for cutting will be,
maybe I can put together a kit.  Just the cut parts. you add the welder.
 We'll see.  Tom Webber

 
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