This is how I would do it. Make the water rad out of a stock 19 inch long core
16 inches wide. Mount it along side the oil cooler. They will then both be the
same over all length.
I got bad news. No way can I squeeze a 4 by 4 air intake plenum in there. Perhaps
you can find 3 by 3 by 1/8 wall aluminum extrusion for a plenum.
Are you sure about that exhaust tubing bend radii? Three inch center
line two inch tube goes right through the motor mount tube with
rubber bushings at 8.5 inches from center line. If you made a new
schertz beam and moved the rubber bushing outboard about an 1-1/2 inches
you would have more room for the exhaust.
We are nearing the end here.
That looks really nice. The alternator is a 40 amp unit, 4" dia., the top of it sticks up 12 inches above the centerline of the e-shaft. I'm not sure about
the radius of the exhaust pipes, but they obviously are inside of the motor mount with about 3/4" to spare. Thanks for the work on the cowl. I'm sure that I
can make an air box that resides alonside the redrive. What are your thoughts about air filtration?
Thanks again,
Brian
I follow you. A spinner is symmetrical about an axis but the cowl is
un-symmetrical
in the region of the spinner so only part of the spinner is a continuation
of the cowl curves. The main determination of the shape of the cowl is
fitting all the parts inside. That leads to a non simple mathematical
shape.
It is a trial an error process. I loft a cowl and see if any part or parts
poke
through and then I make adjustments if they do. Rhino smoothes the curve
automatically.
It is called Non-Uniform Rational B-Splines or NURBS for short.
Check out http://cs.wpi.edu/~matt/courses/cs563/talks/NURBS.htm
For a simple mathematically determined spinner it is not a pain if I have
the coordinate
for the spinner curves. It is just the script language in Rhino does not
do math
as far as I can tell. It will read a text file consisting of coordinates
and plot
curves through those points.
The other thing that can be done is select the side
view and continue the top curve out to a point located x distance from
the front of the cowl and on the thrust center line. Here is a dwg of
that.
The lower line is a straight line or a cone. The middle is a NURBS
continuation
of the side view and the upper line was a first guess cone. Take your pick
:)
"When you get me the coordinates for the cowl"? I thought I was off the
hook and
you were going to use strips of wood instead ? :)
Paul Lamar
"When you get me the coordinates for the cowl"? I thought I was off the
hook and
you were going to use strips of wood instead ? :)
Paul Lamar
OK here is a new 16 inch spinner and matching cowl. I think you can just get the
four inch intake plenum in there. You can just see it peeking out on the right side.
Do you like a point on the spinner or a rounded end?
That looks really nice. There is another inch or so above the alternator due to a different mount setup. The alternator is mounted on a bracket welded to the water pump where it was modified. Not that it makes a difference in the cowl design. That is exactly what I had envisioned. Thanks. I prefer a parabolic shaped spinner.
Brian Trubee
Pointed or rounded?
It won't be impossible to get the exhaust in there just difficult. This problem happens
over and over again. People put the rubber bushings too close to the engine.
You want to get those rubber motor mount bushings as far outboard as you
can. Probably the last thing you want to design is the motor mount.
Paul Lamar
It's a little tight on the exhaust, but I have every confidence that I will be able to route it, shroud it and keep the engine mount tubes and barry mounts cool. The integrity of the exhaust system is the thing that most concerns me with these engines.
Brian
Just go up on the wall thickness Brian. Ed Anderson's hardly discolors with .14 wall cheap
stainless steel railing. You only need a few feet of the thick stuff.
Paul Lamar
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