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 >  >>

No, I live in central Ohio.

Now that you have beat on the thing, I would replace all of the thrust parts
to avoid a failure later. When you pry on the counter weight you are pulling
the thrust plate into a conical shape. It will spring back most of the way when
you quit prying on it but then its too late. Scrap everything that touches
the thrust bearings and the thrust bearings. That is to include the hard washer
on the crank and the one on the counterweight.

Now buy the Racing Beat puller, or make one from a piece of plate stock and 6
metric bolts from Sears. Put the nut back on but backed off of the counter
weight about 2 turns. The puller needs to push against the end of the crank. The
nut should not touch the puller. When the taper lets go there will be much
energy stored in the puller plate and the counterweight. Without the nut in
place to stop it, the counter weight or worse, the 45 pound fly wheel will leap
from the crank and fall on your good foot.

You put on the puller and take a strain on the bolts, about 40 pounds. Use
anti-seize under the bolt heads and on the threads.

With the cutting torch and a rich flame and no cutting oxygen flow, heat the
counterweight between two adjacent bolts. Don't be afraid to get it too hot.
You will be replacing the rear seal anyway. Go all the way to red if you have
to. The counterweight will jump off the taper with a bang.

Please to not beat on the counter weight/flywheel with a hammer. You will
need to replace the thrust stuff if you do that too.
In any case where I have not installed the thrust parts, I have no way of
knowing if another person beat the counterweight off with a hammer, before I got
hold of this engine, so I scrap those parts that are suspect.

It comes off so easily this way it is just funny, after all of that drama.

Lynn E. Hanover

 
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