> > > Jerry Hey wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Paul, this rear counterweight does not appear in Haynes or on Bruce's
> > >> video. I assume it was added when the manual flywheel was removed.
> > >> Is
> > >> that standard practice? Do I use a puller to remove it? I am the
> > >> third owner of this engine since it was dedicated for aircraft use. I
> > >> believe the first owner rebuilt it. This is my first time inside this
> > >> or any rotary. Thus far it has been good news. New oil pump and
> > >> chain
> > >> and all new bolts and is immaculately clean except for surface
> > >> discoloration on the counterweights. Jerry
> > >
> > > Smack it with a hammer and it will pop right off the taper. I see you
> > > got
> > > the hard part done. The big nut is off:)
> > >
> > > Paul Lamar
>
> > I spent the last two hours trying to get the counterweight to release.
> > I've tried hammering as hard as I am willing to go. Nothing. I made
> > a puller using 1/2" all thread for the center post with a nut welded on
> > one end. Probably the welding annealed the all thread because I
> > twisted the end off of it. Before the all thread gave way, I was
> > pulling about as hard as I could on the 1/2 rachet. but I had not yet
> > gone to the 22 inch breaker. During breaks from the above activity, I
> > went through all the pry bars I own except for the 36" crow bar. If
> > someone knows how to do this, please let me know. Thanks, Jerry
> >
> > p.s. Do any of you sharp rotary mechanics live near Northern Indiana?
> >
>
> What size hammer did you use? Try a ten pound sledge. did you put some WD40
> on there?
>
> Paul Lamar
>
Jerry,
I would go easy with the hammer......You do not want to damage or deform
the counterweight......The correct way is to put tension on the C/W with a
puller then use the hammer (preferably with something a little softer between
the C/W and hammer..brass,etc).....The comercially available puller is a round
steel disk 1/2 inch thick with six holes to match the C/W and a large nut welded
in the center for a 3/4" or larger fine thread bolt......Thread the large C/W nut
on the excentric shaft so threads are flush with top of nut.......Place a small flat
piece of steel between the puller bolt and the excentric shaft to protect it from
deforming.......After attaching the puller disc to the C/W with six 10 mm bolts
tighten the center bolt a bunch.......Then apply hammer (with softer buffer
between C/W and hammer)......If it does not pop loose tighten center bolt
some more and apply hammer again......FWIW
Kelly Troyer
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