Jerry Hey wrote:
Paul, this rear counterweight does not appear in Haynes or on
Bruce's
video. I assume it was added when the manual flywheel was removed.
Is
that standard practice? Do I use a puller to remove it? I am the
third owner of this engine since it was dedicated for aircraft use.
I
believe the first owner rebuilt it. This is my first time inside
this
or any rotary. Thus far it has been good news. New oil pump and
chain
and all new bolts and is immaculately clean except for surface
discoloration on the counterweights. Jerry
Smack it with a hammer and it will pop right off the taper. I see you
got
the hard part done. The big nut is off:)
Paul Lamar
I spent the last two hours trying to get the counterweight to release.
I've tried hammering as hard as I am willing to go. Nothing. I made
a puller using 1/2" all thread for the center post with a nut welded on
one end. Probably the welding annealed the all thread because I
twisted the end off of it. Before the all thread gave way, I was
pulling about as hard as I could on the 1/2 rachet. but I had not yet
gone to the 22 inch breaker. During breaks from the above activity, I
went through all the pry bars I own except for the 36" crow bar. If
someone knows how to do this, please let me know. Thanks, Jerry
p.s. Do any of you sharp rotary mechanics live near Northern Indiana?
What size hammer did you use? Try a ten pound sledge. did you put some
WD40
on there?
Paul Lamar
Jerry,
A sharp blow to the edge of the counter-weight ( or flywheel) should do the
job. The counter weight as the flywheel is a taper fit to the e-shaft and
requires that shock to break the tight taper fit, after it's been
bolted -up.
I don't know if it's best with the flex-plate on or off - if figure with the
flex-plate on you can hammer in different places, just a suggestion!
George (down under)
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