Jerry Hey wrote:

Paul,  this rear counterweight does not appear in Haynes or on

Bruce's

video.  I assume it was added when the manual flywheel was removed.
Is
that standard practice?   Do I use a puller to remove it?    I am the
third owner of this engine since it was dedicated for aircraft use.

I

believe the first owner rebuilt it.  This is my first time inside

this

or any rotary.  Thus far it has been good news.  New oil pump and
chain
and all new bolts and is  immaculately clean except for surface
discoloration on the counterweights.   Jerry

Smack it with a hammer and it will pop right off the taper. I see you
got
the hard part done. The big nut is off:)

Paul Lamar

I spent the last two hours trying to get the counterweight to release.
I've tried hammering as hard as I am willing to go.  Nothing.   I made
a puller using 1/2" all thread for the center post with a nut welded on
one end.   Probably the welding annealed the all thread because I
twisted the end off of it.  Before the all thread gave way,  I was
pulling about as hard as I could on  the 1/2 rachet.  but I had not yet
gone to the 22 inch breaker. During breaks from the above activity,  I
went through all the pry bars  I own except for the 36" crow bar.   If
someone knows how to do this, please let me know.    Thanks,  Jerry

p.s.  Do any of  you sharp rotary mechanics live near Northern Indiana?

What size hammer did you use? Try a ten pound sledge. did you put some

WD40

on there?

Paul Lamar

Also, if you take a propane torch and heat the counterweight, it may expand
away from the shaft a couple thousands of an inch and help. We use this
technique often in repairing diesel tractors (18 wheeler types).  You must
strike the blows soon after you heat the counterweight, however.  If you
wait too long, the shaft slowly absorbs the heat and it, too expands.  If
that happens, let it all cool and try again.  And yes, WD-40 is a magic
chemical....it permeates into the smallest of cavities.  Good luck.  Paul
Conner

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