Hi everyone,  I've set a time to meet with the CNC shop to discuss the
possibility of making the spacer.  I've had some success with the 3/16 front and back plates.
The plasma leaves a bit of rough edge on the Aluminum, the thermal conductivity of
the aluminum make it much more difficult to cut a clean edge in thicker Al plate.
See attached Pictures of 3/16 plate cut and cleaned.  Also see Rev 9 of the slide
throttle assembly.

Paul,  Any comments on the subtle changes to the attach flange or anything
else. Also will we be attaching the manifold tubes to the throttle with silicon
hose?  How long should the tubes be, both port side and manifold side?  FWIW thats where
we are. T.W.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Couple of points on your 3D's Tom. Back to front.

A: The round flanges should be made tall rectangles
so they can share bolts at top and bottom. Also it is
easier to align the bolt holes when bonding the tubes into
the rotor housings. We trial assemble the engine with center,
front and back rotor housings and then bond the tubes in
with pre welded flanges while the inner plate is bolted up.
The inner plate serves as an alignment tool. Been there done that.

B: They should be near the end of the short
tubes that are bonded into the engine so they can be bolted to the
inner slide throttle plate. That is essential as the engine must be
able to be taken apart to overhaul of course.

C: The tubes are two inches in diameter so they should pilot in the
inner plate for alignment and inside smoothness reasons.

D: The outer 2 inch tubes or 180 degree bends can be welded to the outer
plate for compact size length  and sealing reasons. Again they should pilot in
the outer plates for a smooth joint. A bit of sanding after welding
will take care of any protrusions.

Paul Lamar

Paul

I just started taking the spare 13B engine apart to study the technique.
This one has a 4 barrel carb and a thick 1/4" ...ABS??? plastic between the
carb and manifold.  Perhaps this plastic would make an ideal spacer for the
slide throttle.  Water jet should cut it out easily.
Let be know if anyone out there needs the carb, intake manifold, 'do not
remove' air pump (I removed it)  alternator, or air conditioner pump.

I think this engine is heading for P port experiments.


Doug in Japan.

ABS is easier to cut the spacer but you still need a way of doing it.
It could be done on a jig saw with a removable blade. You drill
a hole in the spacer material. Put the blade through it and proceed
to cut the straight lines.

Hang on to the air pump Doug. Makes a great and long lasting vacuum
pump to power your gyros. A bit heavy but well worth it.

BTW Tom this 3D shows the rectangular flanges.
Ignore the slots in the plates people as Tom idea was to go to
a thicker spacer and attach the slide throttle push pull
rod to the Teflon another way.

Paul Lamar

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