>
> How does one tell a flywheel from an automatic 13b vs. a flywheel
from
> a manual 13b?
>
> I began adding Tracy's RD-1C & Jerry's Shertz Beam to the engine
> today, only to be stopped on the 2nd step. Tracy makes clear that an
> automatic flywheel is necessary. On step 2 I was unable to get the
> dampener plate to sit flush on the flywheel I have -- so I am
> suspicios that it is the "wrong" flywheel.
>
> Besides now having to probably find a new flywheel, am I at risk of
> also having to change anything else? i.e., the counterweight?
>
> Mark & Mark
>
> Real easy. One you can pick (the auto TX flywheel (flex plate)) and
> the other one is glued to the ground :)
> The automatic has a bunch of small holes in it and is made from
> sheet metal.
>
> Definitely on the counter weight. Send email to Dave Lemon
> at Mazdatrix on which counter weight to use as he built the
engine. He might have
> one in stock.
Another problem: the end of the e-shaft (where the nut is) has some
sort of residue inside of it. In order to mount the redrive, the
pilot has to be able to fit into the e-shaft & it is currently binding
on this residue. I have tried zapping it with solvents, but no dice.
Any hints on what this stuff is & how to get rid of it? I am not
excited about sticking a grinder in there, since I would no doubt
screw up the interior finish. Maybe a heat gun?
Mark
Also ask this question of Dave. I think it might be some sort
of Loctite product.
A heat gun might help.
Paul Lamar
--
Mark, there should not be much residue in there except for burnt
grease. Are you sure that all parts of the pilot bearing has been
removed? That can be a real B!^*&# to get out!!!! However, it is OK if
the surface is not perfectly smooth, as there is no real relative motion
between the e-shaft and the input shaft of the RWS gear drives. So put
some sort of scotch brite or sanding disk on a drummel and wack it out
until the input shaft fits.