>

      > How does one tell a flywheel from an automatic 13b vs. a flywheel
     from
      > a manual 13b?
      >
      > I began adding Tracy's RD-1C & Jerry's Shertz Beam to the engine
      > today, only to be stopped on the 2nd step.  Tracy makes clear that
an
      > automatic flywheel is necessary.  On step 2 I was unable to get the
      > dampener plate to sit flush on the flywheel I have -- so I am
      > suspicios that it is the "wrong" flywheel.
      >
      > Besides now having to probably find a new flywheel, am I at risk of
      > also having to change anything else?   i.e., the counterweight?
      >
      > Mark & Mark
      >
      > Real easy. One you can pick (the auto TX flywheel (flex plate)) and
      > the other one is glued to the ground :)
      > The automatic has a bunch of small holes in it and is made from
      > sheet metal.
      >
      > Definitely on the counter weight. Send email to Dave Lemon
      > at Mazdatrix on which counter weight to use as he built the
     engine. He might have
      > one in stock.


     Another problem: the end of the e-shaft (where the nut is) has some
     sort of residue inside of it.  In order to mount the redrive, the
     pilot has to be able to fit into the e-shaft & it is currently binding
     on this residue.  I have tried zapping it with solvents, but no dice.
     Any hints on what this stuff is & how to get rid of it?  I am not
     excited about sticking a grinder in there, since I would no doubt
     screw up the interior finish.  Maybe a heat gun?

     Mark

     Also ask this question of Dave. I think it might be some sort
     of Loctite product.

     A heat gun might help.

     Paul Lamar
     --


Mark,  there should not be much residue in there except for burnt
grease.  Are you sure that all parts of the pilot bearing has been
removed?  That can be a real B!^*&# to get out!!!!  However, it is OK if
the surface is not perfectly smooth, as there is no real relative motion
between the e-shaft and the input shaft of the RWS gear drives.  So put
some sort of scotch brite or sanding disk on a drummel and wack it out
until the input shaft fits.
-- 
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vp4skydoc/index.html

Don't forget to remove the "fan blades" from the flywheel, they will
not allow the flywheel to fit inside the S_Beam gap on the top.


  Vince R.