> >       > How does one tell a flywheel from an automatic 13b vs.
   a flywheel
    > >      from
    > >       > a manual 13b?
    > >       >
    > >       > I began adding Tracy's RD-1C & Jerry's Shertz Beam to
   the engine
    > >       > today, only to be stopped on the 2nd step.  Tracy makes
   clear that
    > > an
    > >       > automatic flywheel is necessary.  On step 2 I was
   unable to get the
    > >       > dampener plate to sit flush on the flywheel I have --
   so I am
    > >       > suspicios that it is the "wrong" flywheel.
    > >       >
    > >       > Besides now having to probably find a new flywheel, am
   I at risk of
    > >       > also having to change anything else?   i.e., the
   counterweight?
    > >       >
    > >       > Mark & Mark
    > >       >
    > >       > Real easy. One you can pick (the auto TX flywheel (flex
   plate))
    > > and
    > >       > the other one is glued to the ground :)
    > >       > The automatic has a bunch of small holes in it and is
   made from
    > >       > sheet metal.
    > >       >
    > >       > Definitely on the counter weight. Send email to Dave Lemon
    > >       > at Mazdatrix on which counter weight to use as he built the
    > >      engine. He might have
    > >       > one in stock.
    > >
    > >
    > >      Another problem: the end of the e-shaft (where the nut is)
   has some
    > >      sort of residue inside of it.  In order to mount the
   redrive, the
    > >      pilot has to be able to fit into the e-shaft & it is
   currently binding
    > >      on this residue.  I have tried zapping it with solvents,
   but no dice.
    > >      Any hints on what this stuff is & how to get rid of it?  I
   am not
    > >      excited about sticking a grinder in there, since I would
   no doubt
    > >      screw up the interior finish.  Maybe a heat gun?
    > >
    > >      Mark
    > >
    > >      Also ask this question of Dave. I think it might be some sort
    > >      of Loctite product.
    > >
    > >      A heat gun might help.
    > >
    > >      Paul Lamar
    > >      --
    > >
    > >
    > > Mark,  there should not be much residue in there except for burnt
    > > grease.  Are you sure that all parts of the pilot bearing has been
    > > removed?  That can be a real B!^*&# to get out!!!!  However, it
   is OK if
    > > the surface is not perfectly smooth, as there is no real
   relative motion
    > > between the e-shaft and the input shaft of the RWS gear
   drives.  So put
    > > some sort of scotch brite or sanding disk on a drummel and wack
   it out
    > > until the input shaft fits.
    > > --
    > > Dave Leonard
    > > Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
    > > http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
    > > http://members.aol.com/vp4skydoc/index.html
    > >
    >
    > Don't forget to remove the "fan blades" from the flywheel, they will
    > not allow the flywheel to fit inside the S_Beam gap on the top.
    >
    >
    >    Vince R.

   Wow - that flywheel is shaped very different from mine - no wonder
   mine doesn't work.

   What is the preferred method for removing the fans?  Looks like a
   rotary cutting tool & 5 minutes to "snip" them off...

   Mark

   Yep rthat sounds about right Mark

   Paul Lamar


Speaking of those fan blades, what is their purpose?  Seems they add a
measurable amount of drag to the flywheel (you would never allow them on
your airframe without an important purpose, but the flywheel is going
even faster.

Maybe they are there for torsional rigidity.