> Paul
 >
 > I have attached 2 drawings in auto cad not very good but I think your smart enough to
 > figure it out what I have is a Long Ez with cessna 210 retracts on it you can see it
 > at www.myairplane.com click on construction log and then Tonyslongez anyway which of
 > these 2 drawings would work best for my application and I was wondering if you had
 > time to draw it 3-d so I can start modeling the intake
 >
 > Thanks Tony
 >
 > P.S. I hope to see you at oshkosh.
 >
 > Hi Tony. for 2D drawings hit shift Print Screen on your keyboard.
 > Load Windows Paint and press Paste.
 > Save As jpg. Your 2D dwg will now be in jpg form which
 > you can attach to your email messages. Saves a lot of work for me :)
 >
 > Interesting idea you got there. Rule of thumb it takes about
 > 600 cubic inches of rad volume to cool a rotary so a thick vertical
 > rad 15 inches wide and 10 inches high would have to be about 4 inches thick.
 > The first 1/3 of the rad does 3/4 of the cooling and the second
 > half does 1/4 of the cooling. Another old rule of thumb.
 > Not too good at our takeoff and climb speed ranges of around
 > 80 120 MPH as it takes a lot of dynamic pressure to force air
 > through a thick rad. It will work but you might not be happy
 > on a hot day.
 >
 > Modern highly efficient heat exchangers tend towards large frontal area with
 > minimal thickness. This late model Dodge PU rad is a good example. So laying
 > it down at an angle seems to be the best solution. I modified your drawing
 > to show the dimensions and a slightly better configuration.
 >
 > Paul Lamar
 >

 > Paul what does the exhaust side of the radiator look like is it going to
be a whole there or do I need luvers of some sort?

Tony

Optional. Being on the perfectly flat under side I don't think louvers would
be required. On the other hand movable louvers might reduce the drag at
cruise speed by limiting the air going through the rad. Max cooling is only
required at takeoff and climb.

For the new guys read my article on the subject. It is still a work
in progress and eventually will turn into a book.

http://www.rotaryeng.net/cooling.html

Paul Lamar

Tony, interesting idea with the CE-210 style retracts.  Be cautious about
using blue (styrofoam) on the nose and bottom of the airplane.  If you have
fuel leak with the aircraft parked on the nose, the fuel could work its way
down and eat up the foam.  The plans call for urethane foams on the bottom.
Cheers.
--Kent
Cozy IV flying
Long-EZ building--


> Hi kent. Are you refering to the yellow foam that is called out for in the
> plans for > the nose? I ordered the foam kits from Aircraft spruce I think it is the right
> stuff > it is real easy to sand but makes a mess and sticks to everything. But if i
> recall > that isn't fuel proof foam either. I pored some gas on it in  the trashcan and
> it > turned to a nice yellow goo in about 3.5 secounds do i have the wrong stuff? I
> saw > that E-Cobb was recomending that noses be built with blue foam it sands better
> and is > a little more rigid than the yellow foam I was also thinking about
> fabricatiing a > small stainless box to put my fuel selector valve in with a drain going out
> the > bottom so if it should leak it'll go out the bottom of the airplane not drip
> down the > nose.
> I forgot to mention the foam is divinacell blue foam same stuff for the wings.
> any thoughts Tony


Tony,
     I checked the Long-EZ plans and they call for PVC and urethane foams for
the fuselage and nose.  Both are impervious to fuel.  The PVC is the sheet
stuff (3/8- 1/2"?) (H45,H100,H250).  H45 is dark blue and used in the fuel
tanks, H100 is used in the nose gear box and the urethane (2" thick, green
or Light tan) is for gluing on the nose and shaping the nose.
     In my Cozy IV plans, Divinycell replaces PVC (buff or pink) so I guess
divinycell is also fuel resistant.   The urethane used to shape the nose
does sand very easily (too easy).
     If the foam you're using desolves in fuel, it might be the styrofoam
used in the wings.  I've used styrofoam for the upper parts of the nose and
You'd probably be OK using it for the top and sides of the nose, but if you
ever have a fuel leak that drips or seeps as far as the nose, it might
desolve styrofoam in the bottom of the nose.  Best stick to urethane for the
bottom of the nose and PVC/divinycell for anything that might encounter
fuel, or a fuel leak.
     I notice you're going to build a lot of new structure around your
retracts.  I would use PVC/divinycell/urethane there for the same reason.
     You mentioned that divinycell is the same foam as in the wings but I
don't think so.  The wings are just styrofoam.  If the stuff  you have
desolves, it's probably some sort of styrofoam.
     Hope that helps.

     The retract mechanism you're using . . . is it off a Cessna or from
something else?
--Kent

-- 

Yes the retracts that you see on the web site are from a cessna 210 here is the web site so you can see it (www.myairplane.com go to construction log and click on tonyslongez)by the way if any are interested, the web site is free and they have everything you need on the site to publish your project at no cost to you. No gimmics just a web site. As you can see, I had to do a little (rubics cube)on the retracts to get them to fit but it should work real nice. Also the way they are situated allows them to only move 90deg as opposed to the normal 180deg actuation that cessna uses in other words, the way I have them in the airplane they only need to move 90deg. I'm not using the stock actuators. I machined them off, I would suggest that if you need actuation for anything, check out Mmac actuators.(Don't tell them you are using them on an airplane) here is the linkhttp://www.mmacactuators.com/Introducing%20the%20Mini-MAC1.pdf absolutely without a doubt the finest actuators made and they will customize them for you as in extending the motor shaft so you can crank the actuator by hand perfect for retracts also there is no plumbing it's all self contained all you need is 2 wires to the motor up and down you'll see what I mean. Powerful little suckers too.
and Kent you are right the divinacell isn't fuel proof and the tan is so I will put a patch of sorts on the bottom of that nose before I glass it to avoid a later problem. Thank you very much for your insight.

Tony