>
>       > How does one tell a flywheel from an automatic 13b vs. a

flywheel

>      from
>       > a manual 13b?
>       >
>       > I began adding Tracy's RD-1C & Jerry's Shertz Beam to the engine
>       > today, only to be stopped on the 2nd step.  Tracy makes clear

that

> an
>       > automatic flywheel is necessary.  On step 2 I was unable to get

the

>       > dampener plate to sit flush on the flywheel I have -- so I am
>       > suspicios that it is the "wrong" flywheel.
>       >
>       > Besides now having to probably find a new flywheel, am I at risk

of

>       > also having to change anything else?   i.e., the counterweight?
>       >
>       > Mark & Mark
>       >
>       > Real easy. One you can pick (the auto TX flywheel (flex plate))
> and
>       > the other one is glued to the ground :)
>       > The automatic has a bunch of small holes in it and is made from
>       > sheet metal.
>       >
>       > Definitely on the counter weight. Send email to Dave Lemon
>       > at Mazdatrix on which counter weight to use as he built the
>      engine. He might have
>       > one in stock.
>
>
>      Another problem: the end of the e-shaft (where the nut is) has some
>      sort of residue inside of it.  In order to mount the redrive, the
>      pilot has to be able to fit into the e-shaft & it is currently

binding

>      on this residue.  I have tried zapping it with solvents, but no

dice.

>      Any hints on what this stuff is & how to get rid of it?  I am not
>      excited about sticking a grinder in there, since I would no doubt
>      screw up the interior finish.  Maybe a heat gun?
>
>      Mark
>
>      Also ask this question of Dave. I think it might be some sort
>      of Loctite product.
>
>      A heat gun might help.
>
>      Paul Lamar
>      --
>
>
> Mark,  there should not be much residue in there except for burnt
> grease.  Are you sure that all parts of the pilot bearing has been
> removed?  That can be a real B!^*&# to get out!!!!  However, it is OK if
> the surface is not perfectly smooth, as there is no real relative motion
> between the e-shaft and the input shaft of the RWS gear drives.  So put
> some sort of scotch brite or sanding disk on a drummel and wack it out
> until the input shaft fits.
> --
> Dave Leonard
> Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
> http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
> http://members.aol.com/vp4skydoc/index.html
>

Don't forget to remove the "fan blades" from the flywheel, they will
not allow the flywheel to fit inside the S_Beam gap on the top.


   Vince R.

Wow - that flywheel is shaped very different from mine - no wonder
mine doesn't work.

What is the preferred method for removing the fans?  Looks like a
rotary cutting tool & 5 minutes to "snip" them off...

Mark

Yep rthat sounds about right Mark

Paul Lamar

What will that do to the balance at 7500 RPM?

Bill Bradburry


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