> Big Snip
>
> I think we have it figured out. Jerry assembled his and found
> the problem.  Here is the solution. Find a tig welder
> locally and send me the bill. My fault for not catching this.
> Cheaper than shipping it back and fourth.
>
> Paul Lamar

Paul, your drawing only shows the notches on one side but I sure you
want them on both sides.  The piece that is to be welded on just sits
on top of the S.beam I presume.  Is it the same for both sides?   Can
Rhino pop out a measured 2D drawing?    I will have to provide this
modification for all future S-beams and of course,  for those already
shipped.      Thanks, Jerry

They are there you just can't see them :)
See the last message.

I'm going to try and get all this rework done this weekend.  A few
more questions on relocating the starter mount point.

- In the CAD drawing, you show the starter at a 5.3-degree offset from
the horizontal.  This places the existing mounting flange holes
exactly wrong with respect to the bolt holes for the mount.  I note in
Al's install, he seems to have shifted the starter a bit to allow one
flange hole to align correctly, and then redrilled a new hole to align
with the other mounting bolt hole.  I assume this is what was meant to
be shown in the CAD.

- Based on the CAD, it would seem that a chord drawn between the 2
existing bolt holes would allow one to easily locate the center of the
new starter hole -- simply measure the flange hole to gear center
distance & mark it on the chord.  This would also be the correct
distance from the mounting seal center point.  Correct?  Easier than
trying to measure x degrees...

- I assume the 02.67 callout indicates a 2.67 diameter hole.  I note
tho that the R1.34 is more than half of 2.67 -- which is it?

-  Best way to cut the Tracy mounting plate for the new starter
position?  I'm thinking I need to find a machine shop to do it.  Also
- any reason not to cut the mounting plate so it aligns with the
bottom of the s-beam?  Saves a little weight & I don't see any reason
to keep the extra material.

- I will need to buy tube spacers for the starter area of the mount.
What material should these be?

Thx,

Mark


Yes you are right Mark. Here is another picture of Al's starter.

The radius number is a rounding error. I can reset Rhino to give it to the
nearest .0001 of an inch if you wish :) Tracy called out 2.67".
That is close enough as it is not that critical. Glad you are so
observent.

Paint the plate in that area with blue Dykem. Scripe the out line
of the slot desired. Center punch and drill a bunch of small holes
just inside the scribe line using a drill press. Use one of those
new fangled round hack saw blades to cut between the holes. Rat
tail file to final size. Takes longer to talk about it than doing it.
As I said the slot is not critical. The two ten MM bolts are
more than strong enough to hold the starter in place.

Steel tubes will work fine. Place close fitting AN type washers
under the ends of the tubes to keep them from digging into
the aluminum.  Hard to find thick wall aluminum tubes
can also be used or drilled out of round bar stock in a lathe.

Paul Lamar

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