>>> >
>>> > > Big Snip
>>> > >
>>> > > I think we have it figured out. Jerry assembled his and found
>>> > > the problem.  Here is the solution. Find a tig welder
>>> > > locally and send me the bill. My fault for not catching this.
>>> > > Cheaper than shipping it back and fourth.
>>> > >
>>> > > Paul Lamar
>>> >
>>> > Paul, your drawing only shows the notches on one side but I
>>> sure  you
>>> > want them on both sides.  The piece that is to be welded on
>>> just  sits
>>> > on top of the S.beam I presume.  Is it the same for both
>>> sides?   Can
>>> > Rhino pop out a measured 2D drawing?    I will have to provide
>>> this
>>> > modification for all future S-beams and of course,  for those
>>> already
>>> > shipped.      Thanks, Jerry
>>> >
>>> > They are there you just can't see them :)
>>> > See the last message.
>>> >
>>> I'm going to try and get all this rework done this weekend.  A few
>>> more questions on relocating the starter mount point.
>>> - In the CAD drawing, you show the starter at a 5.3-degree
>>> offset  from
>>> the horizontal.  This places the existing mounting flange holes
>>> exactly wrong with respect to the bolt holes for the mount.  I
>>> note in
>>> Al's install, he seems to have shifted the starter a bit to allow
>>> one
>>> flange hole to align correctly, and then redrilled a new hole to
>>> align
>>> with the other mounting bolt hole.  I assume this is what was
>>> meant to
>>> be shown in the CAD.
>>> - Based on the CAD, it would seem that a chord drawn between the 2
>>> existing bolt holes would allow one to easily locate the center
>>> of  the
>>> new starter hole -- simply measure the flange hole to gear center
>>> distance & mark it on the chord.  This would also be the correct
>>> distance from the mounting seal center point.  Correct?  Easier than
>>> trying to measure x degrees...
>>> - I assume the 02.67 callout indicates a 2.67 diameter hole.  I note
>>> tho that the R1.34 is more than half of 2.67 -- which is it?
>>> -  Best way to cut the Tracy mounting plate for the new starter
>>> position?  I'm thinking I need to find a machine shop to do it.
>>> Also
>>> - any reason not to cut the mounting plate so it aligns with the
>>> bottom of the s-beam?  Saves a little weight & I don't see any
>>> reason
>>> to keep the extra material.
>>> - I will need to buy tube spacers for the starter area of the mount.
>>> What material should these be?
>>> Thx,
>>> Mark
>>> Yes you are right Mark. Here is another picture of Al's starter.
>>> The radius number is a rounding error. I can reset Rhino to give
>>> it to the
>>> nearest .0001 of an inch if you wish :) Tracy called out 2.67".
>>> That is close enough as it is not that critical. Glad you are so
>>> observent.
>>> Paint the plate in that area with blue Dykem. Scripe the out line
>>> of the slot desired. Center punch and drill a bunch of small holes
>>> just inside the scribe line using a drill press. Use one of those
>>> new fangled round hack saw blades to cut between the holes. Rat
>>> tail file to final size. Takes longer to talk about it than doing
>>> it.
>>> As I said the slot is not critical. The two ten MM bolts are
>>> more than strong enough to hold the starter in place.
>>> Steel tubes will work fine. Place close fitting AN type washers
>>> under the ends of the tubes to keep them from digging into
>>> the aluminum.  Hard to find thick wall aluminum tubes
>>> can also be used or drilled out of round bar stock in a lathe.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Paul-
>>
>> The CAD drawing of the cutouts needed on the SBeam are not correct.
>> The bolts/nuts do not plunge below the top of the beam far enough to
>> require 2 separate cutouts on each side.  Instead, a single cutout of
>> 4" is required on each side.
>>
>> The left edge of the cutout begins 1.85 lateral inches to the
>> right of
>> the lower bolt hole center.  The right edge of the cutout is 3.15
>> lateral inches to the left of the upper bolt hole center.  The total
>> lateral distance between the bolt hole centers is 9.00 inches. (note
>> this is not the diagonal center-to-center distance - it is the
>> lateral
>> distance between extended centers.) 1.85 + 4.00 + 3.15 = 9.00
>>
>> No idea when I will get the machining done -- the local machinist at
>> the field left this morning for a 10 day vacation.  Oh well.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> OK Good info Mark. I was going to make a scale 3D but I did not quite
>> get around to it before I had to keep the wife happy and go off
>> to a family reunion in St Louis. I will get to it soon and see if
>> if there are some other alternatives. My damper plate is up at
>> the hangar. A lot also depends on what Jerry has done so far on
>> the beams he has. In the mean time just make the slot full width.
>> No problem.
>>
>> Paul Lamar
>>
>
> Paul and Mark,  I am still thinking about what to do.  Making a
> single cut out large enough to fix the problem is the direction I am
> leaning.  I happen to have some .125" x .5" 304 SS strips that I just
> placed on the S-beam in the outline of the cut out.  I liked what I
> saw although the .5 height of the strip might have to be reduced
> slightly to clear the counter weight.  It go any further, I have to
> remove my engine from the engine mount.  This I am putting off  until
> I get the ignition coils and wiring  installed.  For some reason MSD
> dropped my order and I  had to reissue it yesterday.
>
> Anyway,  framing in the opening around the flywheel will probably
> look cool and be stronger than the original.   Jerry
>
> How many beams do you have with the spacers welded in Jerry?
>
> Paul Lamar

None.  However,  I do have twenty beams drilled for the spacers and
precision ground spacers for all of them.   I could have a bunch
welded up in short order.    Jerry

Might be stronger to patch the holes and move them up.

Moving them up won't work, Paul.  Unless Jerry welds one of the
spacers above the top of the channel, there is not enough height in
the beam to move the upper spacer enough for the bolts to clear.

Mark

What I had in mind was a couple of ears. I'll have the new, more accurate, 3D
done in 24 hours. I have a damper plate at the hangar for dimensioning
purposes. Something like this but not exactly.
I am not completely happy cutting a large hole in the rest of them.

Paul Lamar


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