>
     > Hi Paul,  I'm back from Florida.  Please put me back on the  list
     > when you get the
     > chance.  How was your excurstion to Hangtown?  Any feed back  on the
     > Slide components?
     >   Thanks T.W.
     >
     > Hi Tom, Thanks for allowing me to pick up the slide throttle  parts
     > in Placerville. You have quite a menagerie on your estate up  there.
     >
     > Our land is not far from yours. It is on Red Robin road if  you know
     > where
     > that is. We just put it up for sale.
     >
     > I got the inner plate machined to fit Mark's P-port engine.  I also
     > have some
     > 1/4 thick Teflon to make the slide itself as soon as I get  over the
     > flu.
     > When I get that done I am going to ship it off to Mark.  Hopefully
     > Jerry will have Mark's motor mount fixed and we can soon run  the
     > engine
     > with your slide throttle unless we run into some more snags.
     >
     > I notices the 2 inch holes are slightly over size. You might  want
     > to reduce their diameter by about .050". I measured them and  they
     > are about .050" over size. People can always file them
     > out to fit. Everything else looks just fine.
     >
     >
     > Paul Lamar
     >
     > Ok, sounds good,  I used a bimetal hole saw for these  holes.  I"ll
     > be using a better (closer tolerance) for future copies.  I'm
     > interested to hear how this works, so we can move forward.   Oh by
     > the way I would like to have two rotor housings fitting with  the
     > PPorts.  Who did you use and can I have a set of housings drop
     > shipped to them for the installation?  Let me know Thanks T.W.
     >
     > My next door neighbor, Jim Poole did it on a Bridgeport.  I'll ask him
     > if he is interested in doing some more. You will save a lot  of money
     > if you pre fill the area with JB Weld. Heat it in boiling water
    before
     > you mix it and it will pour easier.
     >
     > Paul Lamar

    Are you still holding the insert in with epoxy?  How do  you do  this
    if you fill the voids prior to boring?   Jerry

    After it is bored we do a trial fit. There should be a loose
    slip fit. Then coat the outside of the insert with JB Weld and  stick
    them
    in there aligning the two inserts with the inner slide throttle
    plate.  Use an assembled center housing to make sure everything  fits
    together.
    That insures all the bolt holes line up. Tom will have to do  that after
    he gets the bored rotor housings.

    JB Weld, like most epoxies, is good
    to about 3,000 psi. The circumference of the 2 inch OD tube
    is 6.28 inches. If the insert  is only in there for one inch of  its
    length that is  a force of 18,840 pounds holding them in. They are
    in there for good. Sand the insert tube lightly with fine sand  paper
    before applying the JB Weld to remove the aluminum oxide coating.
    Also they can be anodized if you wish. The epoxy sticks to the  anodize
    better than tubing that has been sitting around and acquiring
    an aluminum oxide coating.


Paul-

Just FYI, we found a local machinist to perform the mods.  He has
finished re milling the S-Beam & I will be picking it up tonight to
perform a test-fit.  If it works, I will return it to him to get the
key stock welded on.

He's having some sort of problem re milling the aluminum mounting  plate -
he thinks the starter dimensions on your CAD differs from the  dimensions
for the existing starter hole.  I'll try to get it straightened out
tonight when I get the S-beam, otherwise he wants to wait until I  have a
starter in-hand to compare against.

Mark & Mark

Good idea. There seems to be a lot of slightly different starters
floating around. Best to have the actual one you are going to use.

Paul Lamar

Mark,  weld the key stock from the center outward.  With every stitch
weld the key stock will shrink slightly lengthwise.  If  the ends are
welded first, the ends of the beam will be pulled upward by the
contracting key stock. This would not present a problem on new engine
mount construction, but changing beam end locations on a completed
mount might make it difficult to reassemble,   On my next one, I will
keep the stitches shorter, around .375 inches and at least one inch
apart.  But the main thing is to start in middle and work toward the
ends.     Jerry

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