> > > Hi Paul, I'm back from Florida. Please put me back on the
> > list
> > > when you get the
> > > chance. How was your excurstion to Hangtown? Any feed back
> > on the
> > > Slide components?
> > > Thanks T.W.
> > >
> > > Hi Tom, Thanks for allowing me to pick up the slide throttle
> > parts
> > > in Placerville. You have quite a menagerie on your estate up
> > there.
> > >
> > > Our land is not far from yours. It is on Red Robin road if
> > you know
> > > where
> > > that is. We just put it up for sale.
> > >
> > > I got the inner plate machined to fit Mark's P-port engine.
> > I also
> > > have some
> > > 1/4 thick Teflon to make the slide itself as soon as I get
> > over the
> > > flu.
> > > When I get that done I am going to ship it off to Mark.
> > Hopefully
> > > Jerry will have Mark's motor mount fixed and we can soon run
> > the
> > > engine
> > > with your slide throttle unless we run into some more snags.
> > >
> > > I notices the 2 inch holes are slightly over size. You might
> > want
> > > to reduce their diameter by about .050". I measured them and
> > they
> > > are about .050" over size. People can always file them
> > > out to fit. Everything else looks just fine.
> > >
> > >
> > > Paul Lamar
> > >
> > > Ok, sounds good, I used a bimetal hole saw for these
> > holes. I"ll
> > > be using a better (closer tolerance) for future copies. I'm
> > > interested to hear how this works, so we can move forward.
> > Oh by
> > > the way I would like to have two rotor housings fitting with
> > the
> > > PPorts. Who did you use and can I have a set of housings drop
> > > shipped to them for the installation? Let me know Thanks T.W.
> > >
> > > My next door neighbor, Jim Poole did it on a Bridgeport.
> > I'll ask him
> > > if he is interested in doing some more. You will save a lot
> > of money
> > > if you pre fill the area with JB Weld. Heat it in boiling water
> > before
> > > you mix it and it will pour easier.
> > >
> > > Paul Lamar
> >
> > Are you still holding the insert in with epoxy? How do you do
> > this
> > if you fill the voids prior to boring? Jerry
> >
> > After it is bored we do a trial fit. There should be a loose
> > slip fit. Then coat the outside of the insert with JB Weld and
> > stick
> > them
> > in there aligning the two inserts with the inner slide throttle
> > plate. Use an assembled center housing to make sure everything
> > fits
> > together.
> > That insures all the bolt holes line up. Tom will have to do
> > that after
> > he gets the bored rotor housings.
> >
> > JB Weld, like most epoxies, is good
> > to about 3,000 psi. The circumference of the 2 inch OD tube
> > is 6.28 inches. If the insert is only in there for one inch of
> > its
> > length that is a force of 18,840 pounds holding them in. They are
> > in there for good. Sand the insert tube lightly with fine sand
> > paper
> > before applying the JB Weld to remove the aluminum oxide coating.
> > Also they can be anodized if you wish. The epoxy sticks to the
> > anodize
> > better than tubing that has been sitting around and acquiring
> > an aluminum oxide coating.
> > Paul Lamar
>
> Tom, I talked to Jim Poole. He is interested. He quoted me a very
reasonable
> hourly rate for boring the p-port holes in the rotor housings.
>
> Contact him directly. His phone number is 805 933 2449.
>
>
> I told him there
> would be more people interested in the future. The more he can do
at the
> same times lowers his cost because of set up time. He knows
nothing about the
> JB Weld so make sure the rotor housings are potted in advance.
>
> Paul Lamar
Paul,
Educate me here - why not pot the housings AFTER boring and use less
material for potting?
Ken Powell
Bryant, Arkansas
501-847-4721
C150 / RV-4 under construction
The JB Weld is cheap. Potting it after boring makes a mess as the potting
compounds leaks out around the tube and gets inside the bore and sometimes
on the chrome wear surface. Bad news. It also damps the vibration of the
cutting tools making for a smoother bore.
Paul Lamar
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