>> >
>> > 3) The VAM muffler
*almost* fit. The exhaust pipe hits
one of
>> the mount
>> >
>> > tubes, preventing the exhaust manifold flange from
seating
>> against the
>> >
>> > engine correctly. There seem to be 3 possible
solutions:
>> >
>> > A) Make an insert for the manifold flange which
adds appx
>> 1/4". Not
>> >
>> > convinced the bolts are long enough for this.
>> >
>> > B) Cut the exhaust manifold pipes & lengthen them
so the
>> VAM
>> moves
>> >
>> > 1/4" - 3/8" farther away.
>> >
>> > C) Cut the VAM exhaust tube & increase the angle
toward
>> aft so it
>> >
>> > clears tube.
>> >
>> >
>> Mark, When I built the muffler, I did it with the engine
>> mount in
>> place. I had it off and on many times. It had to be
angled
>> just so to
>> slip it over the flange studs, but it did fit. I have no
>> ideal why it
>> would not fit now. Of your proposed solutions, the
last one
>> would be
>> easy to do. Cut through three sides of the exhaust so the
>> last side can
>> act as a hinge. (It can be cut on a band saw or with a
>> plasma) Heat
>> with a torch and pull it the position you want. I can
>> send you some
>> 321 strips for the patch and also some 347 tig rod
(required
>> to weld
>> 321). Or, you can patch it with 304, readily available
>> everywhere. To
>> weld 304 to 321, use 309 rod.
>>
>> I am very disappointed that you are having difficulties,
>>
>> Jerry
>>
>>
>> We were able to get the muffler over the studs no
problem. The
>> trouble
>> was getting it to fit completely against the engine - in this
>> case, the
>> bottom could not touch because the exhaust pipe was
contacting the
>> engine mount. How thick is the gasket material which fits
between
>> the
>> engine & the muffler flange, Jerry? We were doing a dry-fit,
but it
>> didn't seem that close to fitting -- perhaps you had
gasketing in
>> there
>> & it was enough?
>>
>> Agree that increasing the angle of the exhaust square-tube
is the
>> easiest way to adjust it. Do you suppose there is any
reason to
make
>> this adjustment way up by the VAM, or could it be done a
couple of
>> inches down (where it will be easier to do)? The only
difference is
>> that doing it a couple of inches down would put a 'bend' in
the
>> pipe --
>> can't see that a bend would make any difference.
>>
>> Mark & Mark
>>
>> It was kind of loud on the dyno so a bend might help.
>> Also you might want to weld in a few of these while you are
>> at it. They are reputed to reduce the noise.
>>
>> BTW Mark if you use the stock M2 cowl what are you going to
>> do with the cheeks?
>>
>> Paul Lamar
>>
>
> Mark, I agree that the bend will be of no consequence. As
far as
> the "silencers" I would wait until you run it and make a
real sound
> check. It would also be possible to "drop in"
turbulators into
> the exhaust pipe portion. If it is too loud put in one or
two and
> then test. Keep adding them until you get the sound you
want. This
> is exactly what I intend to do, once the system is bolted to
my test
> engine. The turbulators would be made from pieces of SS
angle. You
> can put them in a grid to disrupt the exhaust gas flow as is
done in
> the Spin Tech. Jerry
>
> Its pretty load Jerry as is. It does have a somewhat
mellower sound
> however.
>
> Paul Lamar
Mark, this is an opportunity if you are willing to do the work.
Without changing anything, test the sound level of the
engine. Also,
check peak static rpm. If it is too loud, you can add the louvers
and test both sound and performance again. And so on. We are so
starved for real data on the exhaust. Everything we think is
speculation and quite possibly not worth a damn. If you can, get
measurements of the exhaust temp at the flange, inside the muffler
and also air temps entering and exiting the cool tube. This data
would be a major contribution. I think Bob White is planning
to do
the same. Jerry
Don't forget guys this is not your average puppy rotary engine.
It is a 250 HP P-port. I am the only one on here that has actually
heard it run :)
As it happens, I have a decibel meter which can meter both fast and
slow
response (A type and C type, as I recall) sound levels. I will take
measurements all along the way to first flight. Better still -- there
is a large open field near the hangar that I can taxi into. I will
take
measurements out there so there is no echo mucking up the readings. I
will also take measurements every 90-degrees around the airplane at
various useful distances, at various meaningful RPM levels.
This of course presumes we actually get the thing installed, running,
and are in a state to move out of the hangar w/o being a hazard to
ourselves or others!
Mark & Mark
Speaking of being a hazard guys take it easy when you feed the power
into this beast. Tracy nearly killed him self with only 200 HP on his
first flight.
I would wait for 100 MPH before I opened throttle all the way. Unless
of course you are already up at 8000 feet out there in CO.
Field altitude is 6873, density altitude is typically 8000 - 9000 feet.
Now everyone knows why we wanted all that HP -- I'm tired of flying
things that stagger into the air. Pulling back on the stick & going up
would be a novelty.
Mark & Mark
I see. :)
Paul Lamar
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