> Paul-
>
> Here are the photos I was referring to earlier.
>
> In the first photo, we see the mounted 13b from the
front. You can
> the
> the 1-degree tilt to the right issue we'd mentioned a few weeks
back.
> You can also see (if you look real close) the flex of the SBeam
> from the
> engine load. I wonder whether the tilt to the right is the
source of
> the interference for the VAM.
>
> Photo 2 shows the interference. Cutting the exhaust tube &
increasing
> aft tilt will allow it to clear the tube.
>
> Photo 3 was supposed to show the flange not seating - but
you can't
> see it.
>
> Photo 4 shows the vertical clearance under a cowl for the whole
setup.
>
> Photo 5 shows 3 inches of clearance at the top of the
redrive mount
> plate.
>
> Photo 6 shows 3 inches of clearance at the top of the water
pump.
>
> Photo 7 shows the oil pan, since there was some debate on
whether
> we had
> a std or large capacity one.
>
> Photo 8 shows a relatively stock M2 bottom
cowling. Interference
> by the
> vertical mount tubes prevent a perfect fit. Not big deal, our
bottom
> will have to be blockier up front anyway for the shark mouth
scoop.
>
> Photo 9 shows things up front looking good.
>
> Photo 10 shows an inteference by the starter motor. Again
no big
> deal,
> since we can massage our cheeks to not do this.
>
> Photo 11 shows the top fitting nicely. We have it pulled back
because
> our length upfront is about 3/4" less than this cowl was
made for.
> (That's me holding it on btw).
>
> Photo 12 shows the fit working pretty well up front. Same
inteference
> by the starter motor.
>
> Photo 13 shows trying to get as close as possible to actual
fit. You
> can see the roughly 3/4 pullback at the rear. Up front the
distance
> from prop flange to cowling is about right to accomodate the
spinner.
>
> Mark
Mark, Thanks for the photos. All in all, it looks very good to me
particularly the clearance over the engine. Plenty of room for the
intake if you decide to wrap over the top. RE: the engine being
rotated to the right, the only thing I can think of is that I
was off
one degree when I set up the fixture. In the fixture, the
S-beam is
bolted to a shaft which can be rotated to clock the mount and also
move in and out to set the prop flange to firewall distance. In
clocking the beam, I have several reference points that must
line up.
I have not had a problem prior to this. Jerry
Try putting a 1/2 inch spacer behind the top right hard point
on the
firewall.
Paul Lamar
Top right? If you mean the top port one, that would increase the
problem. My solution is to simply put one more washer beneath the low
side of the SBeam -- that should bring it up to almost level. We're
only talking 1 degree here. Jerry - got a spare one of those Barry
washers? Conversely, I could simply do nothing about the tilt at all; I
don't see the slight rotation as causing any difficulty. Heck, I can't
keep an airplane that level in flight anyway ;-) BTW -- what torque
should I be applying to the bolts on the mount-SBeam? And, I have the
intense desire to drill the bolts as well...
Also, Jerry, Paul mentioned you might be making some of the rear engine
mount brackets that bolt to the bottom of the oil pan. I'm pretty sure
thats the design I'm going with, so if you're already making a batch...
Since I'll be hanging it off a hardpoint at top center (vs. the bottom
center hard point I've seen in drawings of what I believe to be your
install) the only diff would be the tabs needing to stick out a little
farther to clear the block on the way up.
Mark & Mark
Top right from the pilots perspective (always from the pilots
perspective :))
Bottom left will also work.
Yea those big bolts going through the rubber mounts are way over
kill. I would drill them out but you would save only a few
ounces.
I don't know the torque rating for a 8.8 (grade five) 10 mm bolt. I
would
have to look it up.
Actually, I was referring to the needed torque for the giant bolts from
Jerry. And whether to drill them through the side for a cotter pin or
something. There is nothing to prevent those bolts from loosening due
to vibration. Not sure if a castle nut exists for that type of bolt,
but I must believe that a pin or some safety wire above the bolt would
at least keep the engine from departing the aircraft!
Mark
The problem there is you could crush the steel spacer inside
the Barry rubber bushings if you really torqued down those half
inch bolts. Don't worry about them. Just use a nylok nut on them.
If you are still worried get some 1/2 20 castle nuts from McMaster Carr
and drill the bolts.
Paul Lamar
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