>      > Paul-
     >      >
     >      > Here are the photos I was referring to earlier.
     >      >
     >      > In the first photo, we see the mounted 13b from the front.
     > You can
     >      > the
     >      > the 1-degree tilt to the right issue we'd mentioned a few
    weeks
     >     back.
     >      > You can also see (if you look real close) the flex of the
    SBeam
     >      > from the
     >      > engine load.  I wonder whether the tilt to the right is the
     > source of
     >      > the interference for the VAM.
     >      >
     >      > Photo 2 shows the interference.  Cutting the exhaust tube &
     >     increasing
     >      > aft tilt will allow it to clear the tube.
     >      >
     >      > Photo 3 was supposed to show the flange not seating - but
     > you can't
     >      > see it.
     >      >
     >      > Photo 4 shows the vertical clearance under a cowl for the
    whole
     >     setup.
     >      >
     >      > Photo 5 shows 3 inches of clearance at the top of the
     > redrive mount
     >      > plate.
     >      >
     >      > Photo 6 shows 3 inches of clearance at the top of the water
     > pump.
     >      >
     >      > Photo 7 shows the oil pan, since there was some debate on
     > whether
     >      > we had
     >      > a std or large capacity one.
     >      >
     >      > Photo 8 shows a relatively stock M2 bottom cowling.
     > Interference
     >      > by the
     >      > vertical mount tubes prevent a perfect fit.  Not big deal, our
     >     bottom
     >      > will have to be blockier up front anyway for the shark mouth
     > scoop.
     >      >
     >      > Photo 9 shows things up front looking good.
     >      >
     >      > Photo 10 shows an inteference by the starter motor.  Again
     > no big
     >      > deal,
     >      > since we can massage our cheeks to not do this.
     >      >
     >      > Photo 11 shows the top fitting nicely.  We have it pulled back
     >     because
     >      > our length upfront is about 3/4" less than this cowl was
     > made for.
     >      > (That's me holding it on btw).
     >      >
     >      > Photo 12 shows the fit working pretty well up front.  Same
     >     inteference
     >      > by the starter motor.
     >      >
     >      > Photo 13 shows trying to get as close as possible to actual
     >     fit.  You
     >      > can see the roughly 3/4 pullback at the rear.  Up front the
     > distance
     >      > from prop flange to cowling is about right to accomodate the
     > spinner.
     >      >
     >      > Mark
     >
     >     Mark,  Thanks for the photos.  All in all, it looks very good
     > to me
     >     particularly the clearance over the engine.  Plenty of room for
     > the
     >     intake if you decide to wrap over the top.  RE: the engine being
     >     rotated to the right, the only thing I can think of is that I
     > was off
     >     one degree when I set up the fixture.   In the fixture, the S-
     > beam is
     >     bolted to a shaft which can be rotated to clock the mount and
    also
     >     move in and out to set the prop flange to firewall distance.  In
     >     clocking the beam, I have several reference points that must
     > line up.
     >     I have not  had a problem prior to this.      Jerry
     >
     >     Try putting a 1/2 inch spacer behind the top right hard point
     > on the
     >     firewall.
     >
     >     Paul Lamar
     >
     >
     > Top right?  If you mean the top port one, that would increase the
     > problem.  My solution is to simply put one more washer beneath
    the low
     > side of the SBeam -- that should bring it up to almost level.  We're
     > only talking 1 degree here.  Jerry - got a spare one of those Barry
     > washers?  Conversely, I could simply do nothing about the tilt at
     > all; I
     > don't see the slight rotation as causing any difficulty.  Heck, I
     > can't
     > keep an airplane that level in flight anyway ;-)  BTW -- what torque
     > should I be applying to the bolts on the mount-SBeam?  And, I
    have the
     > intense desire to drill the bolts as well...
     >
     > Also, Jerry, Paul mentioned you might be making some of the rear
     > engine
     > mount brackets that bolt to the bottom of the oil pan.  I'm pretty
     > sure
     > thats the design I'm going with, so if you're already making a
     > batch...
     > Since I'll be hanging it off a hardpoint at top center (vs. the
    bottom
     > center hard point I've seen in drawings of what I believe to be your
     > install) the only diff would be the tabs needing to stick out a
    little
     > farther to clear the block on the way up.
     >
     > Mark & Mark

    Mark, re the rear strut bracket,  I will send you a free one.  How
    much time do I have?   I was not planning on making them for a couple
    of weeks but if you can't wait I will see what I can do sooner.  Jerry


Jerry-

The only thing keeping my engine where it belongs is a 2x4.  This
worries me, since I share the hangar & my airplane gets moved around
when I'm not there.  So, to answer your question, getting the rear mount
was my #1 project.  I do have the local guy who could fab it for me --
he's ready to whip it out for me quickly once given the right
measurements but he doesn't weld, so I'll have to find a welder too.

BTW - can anyone confirm or deny what type of oil pan I have?  Is it the
std one, or is it something different?

Mark

As far as I can tell it is the standard 2nd gen oil pan.
The 2nd gen had the motor mount in the middle of the pan.
the first gen RX7 had the motor mount on the front cover.
The third gen had the motor mount on the rear end housing.
The RX8 is back to the middle of the engine off the center
housing. The weight and shape has been incentive to build
custom aluminum pans. Ed Klepies can build you one.

Paul Lamar