Paul,
 Here are the pictures of the Renesis engine cooling system I set up for
Ben Schnieder.
Thanks,
Ed

WOW!
That's a beauty Ed. If you want an OSH winner goto Ed.
Drop the front of the rads down a few more inches and come
in over the top of the rads with a Kays and London wedge s
shaped diffuser.

What happened to the silicone water hose? I see you got the
right hose clamps on there. Constant torque.
Turn the rads around with inlets and outlets at
the back and you will shorten the rad hoses.

For the new guys that is a Will James James Aircraft RV8
cowl specifically designed for rotary engines.

More pictures with the next message.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

Dear Paul
       The black hoses are for fitting up only they will be replaced with
silicone hoses before flight. Ben and I thought about putting the hoses to
the back but he said there might be too much air restriction, of course hose
lengths would be shorter- maybe on the next one. The rad oil cooler frame is
adjustable it can be angled up or down. When the right angle is determined
the mount ends can be drilled and bolted together and the extra mat. cut
off. This being the first one I believe there is always room for adjustments
and change always open for opinions and suggestions to refine the
cause.Thanks


                                                Regards


                                            Ed Klepeis
techwelding@comcast.net


The other reason for putting them in the back is it frees up
the air intake on the top front of the rads.
You want that Kays & London diffuser on top so you don t get
heat from the exhaust on the rad. It does double duty as
an exhaust heat shield. Also the rad is not immersed in the hot
air under the cowl. It always gets the coldest air possible.


Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

I just noticed something else. Two critical tubes are missing.
When you get a down load on the front rubber bushings
that are going to get 90% of the load (roughly 1800 pounds)
the back tubing frame with the rear rubber bushing will
tend to rock  mostly forward putting tremendous tensile load
in the two tubes marked in purple due to the low angles involved.
The prop thrust will aggravate the situation.

You can  break a very strong chain by stretching it
tight between two solid post and then by jumping on
the middle of the chain. The tension in the chain
approaches infinity.

Lots of tubes do not necessarily make a good motor mount.

Don't take my word for it. Make a 1/4 scale balsa model
out of 3/16 square sticks and apply a modest load.  I have
to leave tomorrow so I won't be able to discuss this further
for about a week.

Easy to fix. Just add the tubes in red.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

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