In a related question, if one had in-tank electric fuel pumps on each
tank (each with one-way check valves) feeding a common fuel supply line,
couldn't an electric switch right/left/both replace the expensive
mechanical fuel valve (assuming that the same switches triggered a
solenoid-controlled valve to switch the return lines to the appropriate
tanks)?

Electric fuel pumps could still be next to the tank with a small sump
with a drain in the lowest part of the tank to get rid of water. Yet I
rarely see fuel schematics that look like that. People want to make them
look like imitations of a carb-based aircraft design rather than an
fuel-injection-based auto design. How come? What am I missing?

I'll shut up now and re-take my seat at the back of the room.

Barry Gardner
Wheaton, IL

Barry,

The system you described I had on my RV6A and am installing on the RV7. It
is very simple and works a treat. The pumps supplied by Tracy will 'suck'
and prime themselves.  The electric change over valve for the return feed is
a Toyota part used when  installing a long range tank on the Landcruiser..
Forget the Gascolaters, use auto. transparent  low pressure filters on input
and high pressure filters on out put.
Happy Flying Ian Beadle . Western Australia.


Tracy was one of the persons telling me the pumps don't suck well :)
He also told me if you let them cavitate they will damage
themselves. My personal expierence is the MSD pump over heats in
seconds to the point of burning your fingers if you let it cavitate.
No doubt in my mind that it will eventually destroy itself.

Make sure you have a fuel head on those pumps with no loops
on the intake side. I had a ten inch high loop on the
intake side of the MSD pump and it failed to self prime.
Easy to test the pumps you are using. Set them up on the
bench with clear plastic hose and move the pump or hose up
and down and see if they self prime. I think you will be amazed.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

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