Hi guys,
Why not use the standard gearbox which will all bolt up fine. Use
second gear and put a prop on. It worked for a long time on
that guys
plane. Name eludes me now.
--
Best regards,
ddunbar mailto:ddunbar@echidna.id.au
-------------------------------------------------
George Graham.
We discussed that possibility Don. It will work fine. Just a
little more
complicated than a simple direct drive wood fan running at 7000
RPM.
Paul Lamar
-------------------------------------------------
Paul.
Ok understanding takes place. I realize your concern. Molten
metal is not a
good thing though some engine dynos do use disc brakes and many
more use
quite small torroid pumps. One pass raises the water temperature
150F. 300Hp
is do doable they claim with a small 2 cycle pump supply the
water to the
water brake. Expensive. This is the software I eventually hope to
use
though. When I am through with it I can donate it to the rotary
engine dyno
cause.
http://www.land-and-sea.com/dyno-max-data-acquisition-software/dyno-max.htm
It is used for making up your own dyno unit. Software is $999 for
the
common one and $2K for the bells and whistles.
Time to slow down and think of a real solution now. The spiral
wood prop
for me would be.. hmmmm how to say it the Japanese way...
'very difficult' translation in Californian 'NOT'
It is no reflection on you Paul. I appreciate your design and
efforts and
understand a prop is a good way to go. Changing rpms into thrust.
Good idea
Wilber:) The problems are several. All mine.
First contrary to what you might expect, wood is not my medium. No
lumbering along jokes here OK?
1. I think and like to design things with very close tolerances.
I am
comfortable with metal and enjoy crafting it. With wood I like it
but I am
terrible at crafting it well. Takes forever and I am never
satisfied with my
work quality.
2. Hardwoods are all imported here in Japan except for a type of
oak which
has a very knarly grain. The maple or birch to make this unit
cost about
$500. The wood I found at the home center the other day turned
out to be
some finger laminated pine which is way to soft. Ditto 2X6 building
material made of ... well you know.
3. To feel comfortable about getting a good bond I would want to
press the
whole assembly which in my understanding would be a nightmare to
accomplish
needing many other pieces of leveling wood of the same density.
4. I have a desire if possible to make something that I can pass
on to the
next person to use or easily copy.
I'll design or source some type of fans in metal. or some type of
pump or a
combination.
One commission I am currently working on is designing a cross
flow turbine
for hydro electric production in small streams.
Now here is silly idea. A 30 inch diameter six inch or more thick
axial
turbine with retaining 1/2" tube welded around the outside of the
circumference for safety blade retention and aid in balancing.
Put a few cc
of oil in the pipe. Identical SUS 304 blades can be stamped out
in minutes
on the NC machine and TIG welded around a thick shaft. Balancing
is a
little tricky but not impossible. The light weight turbine is
shrouded
almost completely for safety reasons and has bearings on front
and back of
the carry through shaft for the light mass but high rpm load.
This would be
designed to create thrust out of the front away from the engine. The
shroud is dual purpose; to contain a thrown blade and contain the
water
spraying into it. Vary the water amount and vary the loading. If
the turbo
13B engine puts out about 250hp at 7500 then the fan has to
absorb roughly
30hp. to bring the engine down to 6000 rpm which is as low as the
first
tests need to be.
The rear would have to be have a large central opening so that
air and water
mist would be blown out. Not real sure of the air inlets details.
Perhaps
Perry could jump in here with some advise. Water could be
collected and
reused. My shop's tank holds 1000 liters of water. Multiple
nozzles might
be needed. Streams are everywhere though.
Doug in Japan
--------------------------------------------------------------
Go for it Doug but is seems like a lot of work compared to
laminating
a few sticks of wood. I can send you the wood a lot cheaper than
$500.
Most props are laminated using C clamps. Also Sensinich sells
3000 RPM direct drive wide wood blade air boat prop that can be
cut down.
You can use the wind to cool the engine.
What thickness and shape are your proposed SS 304 blades? For a
7000 RPM
water pump 30" diameter is out of the ball park. 12 inches is
about right.
A large truck turbo charger compressor section pumping water might
be a better choice. At least you won't have to worry about the
blades flinging off.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
->> -
----
Doug,
Your problem with the cast iron disk is RPM. Therefore, mount a
transmission to the engine and the brake disk to the transmission
output shaft. Select 1st gear and you have reduced the RPM (but
increased the torque) to a manageble level. Is this what George was
proposing? Will this work?
Ken Powell
Bryant, Arkansas
501-847-4721
C150 / RV-4 under construction
Ken
I would have to scrounge up another tranny or take mine apart and fix it.
What is the ratio in 1st gear anyway? Yes testing in any of the above ideas
at lower speed makes a lot of sense though.
Paul the ultralight prop is non adjustable wood. Gee in the states they
have props everywhere. Here not.
Doug in Japan
OK. Just sneak up on it. Cut a little off. See what the max RPM is.
If not high enough cut a bit more off.
I have some junk Warp Drive solid carbon fiber blades that Ken Welter sent me.
They were in a ramp fire. I don't have a hub however. If you want to pop for
a hub or make a two blade version I can pick out two of the best and send
them to you. The hubs are pretty easy to machine. You might have to epoxy
part of the blade back together. The advantage here is the pitch is
adjustable.
I'll saw the blades off to 24" to save shipping cost. What is the best
way to ship something over there about 24 inchs long by 6 by 6 weighing
ten pounds or so?
http://www.warpdriveprops.com/
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
The Rotary Engine NewsLetter. Powered by Linux.
Paul
Done deal. Two blades at 24". Machining a hub for me is not a problem,
its a joy.
Fed Ex works for me. They are quick and charge me for the custom clearance
on my account. You may have to pay for a $50 freight bill there and I can
reinburse you later.
You feel confident that only two adjustable blades can slow the engine down
to 6,000 rpm?
Address is
3586 Higashi Ina, Komagane city,
Nagano Pref. Japan 399-4321
Tel 0265-82-6770
Fax 82-6771
Thanks
Doug Fir
I think so as you can up the pitch to beyond stall.
Those solid carbon fiber Warp Drive blades are bullet proof.
The big HP consumption is in the tips when the drag goes to
near infinity. The noise will be unbelievable so wear ear protection.
Maybe I should ship you three just in case. Some are delaminated
so you will have to epoxy them back together.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
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