Paul,  I modified the oil pan for the s-beam.  No unanticipated
problems thus far.  To regain lost capacity, I closed in the motor
mount indentation.

I like the S-beam's new location because it is farther aft and also
lower which will help with mount clearance.  However. the weld
bushings will now extend 3.25 inches below the pan deck.  Will they
interfere with a typical cowling?  Please say no.

I am working on the strut attachment bracket. Do you think the side
pieces should be .125 or .188 thick (mild steel?).   Note,  I moved
the bracket off of the bolt flange.

Materials for these mods costs almost nothing.

   Jerry

Wow Jerry! Cool. I love your trick for increasing the capacity
of the 2nd gen oil pan. It will look real good when cleaned up and
painted.

Make the ears bigger and go back down to the oil pan bolt flange.
0.065" thick is fine if washers are welded around the 1/2" holes.

It would be better if the .065" thick ears had a right angle flange bent into
them about 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide. Or weld on a four inch wide .065 inch thick
doubler on the back of the pan bent to conform.

Move the ears about 2" apart to clear the pan bolts and use a longer 1/2
inch dia. ball joint bolt with 1/2" wide spacers. The bolt would then have
a grip length of about 2" instead of only one inch. Might as well use
the considerable bending strength of that 1/2 inch ball joint bolt which
is way over kill for shear alone.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

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