Paul, I modified the oil pan for the s-beam. No unanticipated
problems thus far. To regain lost capacity, I closed in the motor
mount indentation.
I like the S-beam's new location because it is farther aft and also
lower which will help with mount clearance. However. the weld
bushings will now extend 3.25 inches below the pan deck. Will they
interfere with a typical cowling? Please say no.
I am working on the strut attachment bracket. Do you think the side
pieces should be .125 or .188 thick (mild steel?). Note, I moved
the bracket off of the bolt flange.
Materials for these mods costs almost nothing.
Jerry
Wow Jerry! Cool. I love your trick for increasing the capacity
of the 2nd gen oil pan. It will look real good when cleaned up and
painted.
Make the ears bigger and go back down to the oil pan bolt flange.
0.065" thick is fine if washers are welded around the 1/2" holes.
It would be better if the .065" thick ears had a right angle flange
bent into
them about 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide. Or weld on a four inch wide .065
inch thick
doubler on the back of the pan bent to conform.
Move the ears about 2" apart to clear the pan bolts and use a
longer 1/2
inch dia. ball joint bolt with 1/2" wide spacers. The bolt would
then have
a grip length of about 2" instead of only one inch. Might as well use
the considerable bending strength of that 1/2 inch ball joint bolt
which
is way over kill for shear alone.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Paul, while I really like the custom aluminum pan, there are real
advantages to just modifying the the stock pans. First, we can
eliminate the need for a windage tray. Secondly the hardest part of
making a new pan is getting the bolt holes exactly right. No problem
with the stock pans of course. The easiest pan to modify will be the
Renesis which needs only to be deepened together with a longer pick
up tube. Setting up for the S-beam seems to be a simple job in any
case. In nearly two years of trying, we have only built two aluminum
pans that I know of, yours and mine. I keep hoping Ed will jump in,
but since the pans are different from engine to engine, building
custom aluminum versions is far more problematic than it would be if
they were all the same. Also, there is some worry, at least by me,
about the performance of the wedge shaped pans not to mention the
perception, however unfounded, that an aluminum pan does not make a
good engine mount.
I like my prototype stock pan well enough. that I am going to
replace my aluminum pan with it, even though it means relocating the
s-beam and building a new engine mount.
As far as S-beam engine mounts are concerned, I think the new
version is clearly superior and I will no longer support the old
location between the drive adaptor plate and bell housing. This
should make Tracy happy but it makes me even happier as the new
location is logical and intuitively "right."
With the new S-beam design looking so good, I am going to start
building engine mounts again. I am enthusiastic about it. I think
I can provide the complete engine mount including the S-beam, Barry
Mounts, modified oil pan including the rear strut bracket for around
$1000.00. Or, for those who want to do it themselves,saving about
$800.00, they have my unlimited technical support.
Jerry
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