Subject: dry vs wet sump
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 1/3/2006, 3:12 PM
To: AA-me



   Happy New Year to you all from Mistral!

   As Mistral is reviewing some parts of its design for the soon-to-come
   3-rotor models,  I'd like to submit the following topics for an informal
   group brainstorming:

   1). What do you think of dry vs wet oil sump? All comments and
   suggestions
   welcome

   2). As it is impractical, if not impossible, to make a fully aerobatic
   rotary engine on the basis of a Mazda block, what level of "limited"
   aerobatics capabilities is acceptable/wished for?  I am especially
   concerned
   with vertical or near vertical manoeuvres... tricky situations for
   rotaries...

   Thanks in advance for the feedback.

   Francois Badoux


   The Rotary Engine NewsLetter. Powered by Linux.
   ACRE NL web site. http://www.rotaryeng.net <http://www.rotaryeng.net>
   Copyright 1998-2005 All world wide rights reserved.


Francois,

Happy new year to everyone at Mistral.  Glad to see you are considering
such issues.  FWIW, I do positive G aerobatics all the time loops,
aileron rolls barrel rolls, wing overs. split S and the like.  I have
also done snap rolls and spins but don't do them on a regular basis.
There was not noticeable effect on my 13B or turbo from the gyroscopic
loads.  I have a wet sump so keep it positive G.  I do more aerobatics
than most RV pilots so I would say the bulk of your potential business
would be happy with a wet sump.

Obviously competition aerobatics require sustained negative g's and a
dry sump.  Oil pooling in the rotors is obviously not a problem and off
the top of my head I can't think of any reason that a dry sump would not
cover standard competition inverted flight (outside loops and inverted
passed over the show area).

Your point about vertical flight (hanging on the prop) is a concern.
The front cover will fill with oil and the front counter weight will be
spinning in a pool of oil.  Also, the front oil seal is not intended to
be immersed in oil and would probably leak.  Neither of these problems
are insurmountable.  I know you use your own front cover and could
probably easily fix the oil seal problem.  It would also be possible to
build an aftermarket front counterweight that was a continuous ring only
heavier on the necessary side.  This is obviously a more difficult
task.  A machined aluminum or composite adaption to the stock counter
weight would probably be an easier solution.

Good luck,
-- 
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html


The Rotary Engine NewsLetter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site. http://www.rotaryeng.net
Copyright 1998-2005 All world wide rights reserved.