> If formation of air bubbles is a one time event as suggested by the
    > experiment with boiling water on the stove (sorry I forgot who did
    > that but it was very informative )  then, there could be a  bleed
    > line with  valve which would be opened only for the the initial
    > engine run to allow air to escape. The bleed line would not have to
    > be part of the floating piston can.   Jerry
    >>
    >
    > It was Bill Schertz that said you had to boil the water.
    > After you boil the water in the block by letting the engine overheat
    > how do you know you have all the disolved gas out of the coolant?
    > Paul Lamar

   Dissolved air leaves the coolant as it is heated and  before boiling
   temperatures are reached.   I just tried heating water in a pan but
   keeping it below boiling temp.  I don't know the exact temp because I
   don't have a thermometer but it was not even simmering.  Later today
   I will repeat with a thermometer.  The bubbles formed  almost as soon
   as the burner was lit.  No new bubbles were formed after a few
   minutes.  And as was previously reported, when the water is allowed
   to cool and is then reheated, no bubbles form.    It took about 25
   minutes for all the bubbles to disappear because they cling to the
   pan.  If the water was being circulated, I think the bubbles would be
   scrubbed away much quicker.  Steam bubbles, on the other hand, do not
   cling to the pan, they rise immediately.    If  the water is heated
   to a yet to be determined temp (below boiling) and held  there for a
   yet to be determined time, we can be sure all the dissolved gas is
   out of the coolant, at least as long as the coolant is water.  I
   don't know the effect of antifreeze yet.   My apologies to who ever
   did this experiment first--they deserve all the credit.   Jerry


   Bill Schertz said the water MUST be "boiled".
   ----------------------

   To clarify,
   As you heat the water/solution, you drive out dissolved air. By
   holding the
   temperature just below boiling for a period of time, you can achieve the
   desired effect, however if you go on and boil it, you will achieve the
   desired effect -- faster.

   To degas the liquid, heat it outside the engine to boiling, then put
   it in
   the engine before it has time to redissolve the gas -- don't have to
   destroy
   the engine by taking it to boiling.

   Bill Schertz
   KIS Cruiser # 4045

   Bill what about the air inside the engine water jacket as you pour the
   degassed water in? Do we need to pull a vacuum?

   Paul Lamar


Are we all actually talking about a cooling system that requires that we
preboil the coolant before installation??  What about the case where you
need to make a field repair?   There should be an easy way to burp the
system.


Matt-



The Rotary Engine NewsLetter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site. http://www.rotaryeng.net
Copyright 1998-2005 All world wide rights reserved.