Subject: Simple? Turbocompound
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 3/14/2006, 10:43 AM
To: AAme




   Hello everyone, As I've been following this design process with bait on
   my breath,  I personally don't have the smarts to pull this off,  but
   I'm one of those fellows hoping it is better then anyone could imagine.
   I've had the same question that Fred did about not having the Compressor
   installed.  Normally aspirated with the TC unit.  I've not purchased my
   rotors yet and have been vacillating on the 89 high compression or the
   89 turbo type.  I don't have the turbo experience and subsequently am a
   little apprehensive about taking this on.  However I really like the
   prospect of milking extra horse power out of the exhaust stream.  So
   based on your comment "why bother".  Should I not worry about the
   possibility?  move forward with the 89' high compression rotors?  But I
   guess if I did add the TC unit and a Turbine the high compression
   rotors
   would not matter anyway.  So maybe I've just answered my own question.
   Go with the 89 high compression rotors and when available add the
   turbine and TC unit later.  Comments   T.W.

   Well if you go with the high compression rotors you could and should
   limit the boost to 5 psi or less at sea level.

   --
   Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.


   WOW - I did not realize the 89 high compression rotors could run at 40"
   MAP - Do I understand that correctly ? So you could TC mildly to 40"
   without big problems ?
   -dave

   --
   Best Regards /Mit freundlichen Gruessen,
       dave ( at ) arb.net <http://arb.net> http://arb.net

   It is pushing it Dave. You still need to make sure the
   air going into the engine intake is less than 140 F.

   BTW I lot of people make the mistake of not blowing air through
   the inter cooler when a turbo engine is on the dyno and consequently
   turbo engines are known for detonating on the dyno.

   Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.


How fast can we turn a water pump (and still have it be efficient)?

How about just have the turbo drive the (engine cooling) water pump
(maybe directly)?  We can be confident that the water pump needs to move
the most water when the turbo is working the hardest.  A much better
solution than an electrically powered water pump.  Arguably better than
having an e-shaft driven water pump.

Matt-

The old water pump will still pump water at 7000 RPM but probably best to keep it
at 6000 RPM. The RX8 pump is a different animal. No info yet on that.

You would be throwing away 47 HP of the 50 HP potential of the turbo compound
because at its worst the water pump only sucks down about 3 HP according
to our water pump dyno test.

-- 
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

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