Where do you smack the flywheel. I used a gear puller, a big hammer and
heat and it was still a struggle.
Lowe's quoted me $65.00 for a 55mm socket and I ended up buying a
big metric set, that only went up to 50mm, for the breaker bar and
ratchet and a large SAE set for the 2 1/8 socket from Harbor Freight for
about $75.00. Karibian

Out near the edge of the flywheel. Use a bigger hammer.
Try a ten pound sledge.

Here is the way I do it.

Attach the gear puller using the bolt holes near the center hub of the
flywheel. Tighten it up the center bolt on the puller as tight as you
dare.  Strike the head of center bolt a sharp blow with a hammer.
Re-tighten the center bolt. Hit it again. Repeat until the flywheel pops
off. Should take about three iterations of tighten and strike.

   Be prepared for the flywheel to literally pop off suddenly. If you
are in the way, it can hit you or drop on your foot and break a toe. It
can pop off while tightening or while striking with the hammer.

   If you hit the flywheel off-center, you are likely to knock it out
of balance. You could also bend the crankshaft ever so slightly. It is
better to hit the center bolt on the puller. This is the standard practice.


Bill Dube'

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Won't hurt to use a puller.
I never heard of anyone bending an E-shaft. And as I said this
has probably been done close to a half a million times since
1973 when I started working on and driving Mazda rotary
powered cars. (Not just by me :)) Mazda sold over 2 million
rotary engines so far.  What happens when you smack
the flywheel with a hammer is you excite the natural resonant
frequency vibration mode of the flywheel much like striking a bell.
This causes it to pop off the E-shaft.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

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