>
> > Is the Renesis oil pickup located in the same position as the 13B?
> > Is there a repair manual such as Haynes for the Renesis. Does it
> > have a photo or drawing of the oil pick up? Thanks, Jerry
> >
> > I have an RX8 manual but not here.
> >
> > Here are some RX8 oil pan pictures and a scan from
> > one of the 2004 RX8 Service Highlights manuals.
> >
> > http://www.haynes.com/na101.html#anchor565073
> > Apparently Haynes does not have one out yet.
> >
> > --
> > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
>
>
> Thanks, I also have a Renesis pan. From the scan, I would say the
> oil pick up bolts to the center housing. Do you agree the end of
> the pick up tube should be relocated full depth in the back of the
> wedge pans? Jerry
>
> I am pretty sure it bolts to the bottom of the oil pump
> or the front housing.
>
> Yes on full depth. You will have to fab one as the stock appears
> to be plastic.
>
> BTW Mazdatrix has somebody modifying stock oil pans.
> These are brazed. Good idea to deepen your pan to hold
> more oil if you have the room. More oil takes longer
> to heat up on takeoff power.
> --
> Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
>
I found that the 13B oil pickup will fit a Renesis with very little
modification. The holes in the 13B pickup tube are only a few
thousandsoff, so minimal grinding will allow it to bolt right to
the Renesis. It
extends down a tad over 3".
This is what I'm using, along with a custom oil pan.
Scott Gettings
BTW Scott what have you decided to do on the cooling set up? I am
kind of
curious.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Hey Paul,
I'm still thrashing around this concept. All of your ideas and drawings
were very helpful. Joe Hull's work was also inspiring. I had to take a
break because the variables were overwhelming, and I kept running out of
cardboard for mockups 8-}
I spent a lot of time trying to make the side vents work, without much
luck. An extenuating factor is that anything I do that further disturbs
the air coming around the pylon throws a big unknown into the plane's
performance. Airflow separation around the pylon has been (and still
is) a big problem for this plane. The mfg. strongly recommends against
doing anything that might make the pylon airflow worse.
After all of this, it looks like having two angled water radiators up
front, about 8" high and about 16" long (2" core) will keep the frontal
area down and be short enough to allow a tightly-wrapped cowl. These
are also close to the water pump input/output ports. The left radiator
can be a little shorter to allow the oil cooler ducting to go around it.
An oil cooler of about 8" x 14 x 2" will fit on the cool side, and its
smaller size would allow a smaller input duct (about 30 sq. inches) than
if using a larger surface area radiator. Its air input duct could
serpentine from the front intake and around the left radiator, or
perhaps from a separate intake on the top or side of the cowling (like
Ken's Coot oil cooler or the SeaHawk pix).
The last oil cooler option is to place it down in the pylon, and duct
air from up top, under the wing via armpit scoops, or the side via thin
side scoops (still a pylon airflow issue). These would only require
intakes 15 sq inches on each side. It would be tricky (as you mentioned)
to get good airflow to a cooler mounted under the bridge. A pair of
thin oil coolers could also lie against the rear pylon walls and exit
the air through a bunch of louvers, but this would require even more
complex ducting.
Scott Gettings
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