Paul
It seems your pump fits my criteria for a central inlet. That is good news.
To clarify our discussion I've included a picture of Ed's modified pump fit
on the block for comparison with your remote design.
Your design eliminates the abrupt and torturous route the water must travel
and that alone will improve the pumping rate. I also see you have tested it
using your end mill set up. Am I correct in guessing you use the standard
Mazda impeller?
The design structurally looks very good. If it is a better performer than a
modified Mazda pump I am definitely interested in purchasing one. I
understand it still only a casting and needs some machining to finish it.
DougFir
The pictures you attached are my pictures? Ed who? :)
Straight in inlets are definitely more efficient than
the Mazda style right angle input. I notice Jim Mederer modified
the KSE pump for a straight in inlet. If you butcher
the stock 2nd gen 13B pump correctly you can add a straight
in inlet. Cut away everything inside the red line and weld
in a straight hose barb represented by the blue circle.
You now have a remote pump. Half the stock pump is merely
a glorified hose barb for the water coming out of the block.
Yes my remote pump uses a stock Mazda 2nd gen replacement cartridge.
--
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
I have two that are incorrectly machined. The taper that clears
the stock impeller was machined too deep into the casting.
You can fix it by taking a fly cut on the cartridge mounting
surface. I also have one input barb that you will need to tig
weld to the pump housing. You will also have to make an
output hose barb on the lathe and tig weld it one as I am out
of output hose barbs. A 10 minute job on the lathe.
BTW I also have a bunch of raw intake casting that might fit
an RX8 engine with some die grinding.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Paul
Some of those pictures were from our resident professional welder Ed
Klepeis. I'll pass on the butchering job for now but try and fix one of your
units that was cut too deep if it less than a mm cut needed. Output barbs
are no problem. I am getting ready to have the P-ports machined out of
round stock now. So can have them done together.
Finally parts are being made.
This time please ship via postal surface mail. Small boxes are less than $15
and they usually arrive in 10 days or two weeks max. FedEX, UPS etc are
outrageous because they tack on other clearance fees on this side of the
pond.
Thanks Paul
What pictures? I got no stinking pictures.
I have not told you the price yet :)
It may be more than a MM. I have not stuffed clay in it yet.
I'll do that shortly. If it is more than a mm you might have
to build it up with welding rod.
--
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Ops I was wrong. They are fine. About .050" clearance.
Either they were OK from the get go or they were already
fly cut. You will need a bit of die grinding to smooth the
transitions. Like porting and polishing your intakes.
BTW there are two second gen pump cartridges. Eight bolt and seven
bolt. You will need the seven bolt version. I think the eight
bolt was used on the turbo engine for some strange reason.
Paul Lamar
Paul
Here is the email again. Yep I can get a 7 bolt version. Perhaps the eight
bolt version was designed to handle the increased twisting stress on the
front housing in turbo versions. About the cost ..so what's the damage?
DougFir
I don't know why they went to 8 bolts. I can't figure it out.
There does not seem to be a problem with 7 bolts. Perhaps
it has to do with the cooling fan mounted on the front of the
water pump shaft.
Less than half price for the pump kit. $100
instead of $250. I got to pay for those patterns somehow.
Back when I first did those pumps few people understood
the advantages. Now the RX8 pump fixed some of the proplems
but not all. I am always ahead of my time. Story of my
life. Epitaph on my tombstone: "He was ahead of his time."
Plus mailing cost.
BTW I took those pictures. Not Ed. He sent them to you?
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
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