Subject: Slide throttle Rev 12 Parts
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 8/16/2006, 8:54 AM
To: AA-me



Yes that the shape of the seal and its location is an excellent idea. Bravo!
Solves my problem.

I've kept fairly quiet on the slide throttle idea till now so I'll share
some other thoughts.  I'd like it to be more compact and have the option to
be motorized.

So I would use a 2mm SUS 304 electo-polished plate.  Not chrome for those
unfamiliar with the process but a lot smoother. No o-rings that might roll
but a 'U' shape hard Teflon seal. The plate rides against a  very minimal
surface area on the tops of the 'U'.  Along the mid top of the SUS plate is
a laser cut linear gear pattern.  A front mounted motor attached to a shaft
passing through a Teflon bearing with O ring seal pressed into the outer
plate drives a gear that engages the throttle plate linear gear. Below, the
throttle plate  would have to ride on a minimal of two rollers triangulated
from the gear drive for smooth operation.  The whole assembly could be very
small and need few M6 bolts.   The width of the slide throttle unit then
only needs to be (on both sides)  wider than the width of the  P-port
opening plus about 12mm on each side.     Cases are identical blanks of
about 6mm plate that unfortunately must have some milling done for the
seals, throttle plate and clearance, rollers, gear area and motor mount
hole.

I yes with a large enough gear ratio you could attach an arm where the motor
is used it manually or another exterior gear and slot, driven by a linear
gear on the throttle cable.

I plan to make up a few of these up once I get your feedback. The seal
solution has been the sticking point:)

Both sides would be near identical and in the future 'diecast' would be the
'cats meow' if the car racers were interested. The area around the ports
could then be a larger diameter and thicker as well allowing individuals to
drill their own mounting holes if desired.

DougFir

I would have to see some good 3Ds on all that to comment.
If I were doing it I would stick to traditional aircraft cable
and pulleys. Good enough for aircraft engines out on the wings.
Way more reliable than a motor.

I don't think you need the seal but it won't hurt. It will take
an NC mill to cut those slots in the Teflon. Die cast is great but
the mold cost will break you.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

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