>> Here are some more pics.
>> Notice how the short tube seats in the counter bore
>> just short of the steel liner.
>> You can use a high quality 1.5 inch hole cutter
>> instead of this shell mill to rough it out before
>> final boring.
>> --  Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
>
>
> This part has people scared but there is nothing to it.  It has been
> awhile but I think I drilled a 1.25 i.d. pilot hole and then opened
> up with a boring head.
> .  It does not take long.  One practice hole and you will have
> confidence to do the real thing.     Jerry


Here is an interesting thread that Cary Beasley found where the builder
shows using  a hole saw to make the final hole.
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=144200&page=1&pp=15

Even if you plan to finish with boring tool, the hole saw would be
cheaper than a big end mill and safer than a fly-cutter to make the
rough cut.  You will need a high quality bi-metallic (such as Dewalt)
hole saw.  Drill the pilot hole as a separate operation.  Replace the
pilot drill in the hole saw arbor with a solid rod to guide the hole saw.

It occurs to me that if you mount the hole saw in the mill and gently
dress the tooth set on the outer edge with a die grinder, that it would
make a hole with a surface finish very nearly as good as the boring
tool.  The tube could then be turned to fit to the hole.   One benefit
of doing it this way is that you could set it up for the cut with a much
less rigid angle plate.

Aubrey

Aubry that's interesting indeed.

Paul

I have another question when I have these P-ports cut, is the Housing
level when you cut the port or is it at the angle it would sit
naturally when you set it on something flat with the exhaust port up
toward the sky?

Tony

The bottom of the housing is perpendicular to the horizontal.
Use a carpenters or machinist level. Or a large carpenters
square between the bottom of the rotor housing and the mill table.
Support the housing with blocks under the spark plug side
and the mill table.

-Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

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