>
Jerry,
I just talked to Ken at Vans. Stonewall. Call back next Monday. I
don't
have access to those drawings. The rotary has too many problems.
Just
get the mount from us and match drill it to the firewall. etc.,
etc.,
etc. The one thing that he did say was that he thought the exact
location wasn't too critical. 'If you get it within 1/4" it will
probably be all right.' This from an "engineer!"
Rats. <other expletives deleted>
I notice that Conversion Concepts offsets the engine 1 degree. To
the
right for the RWS RD-1C 2.85 redrive. But that doesn't help much.
Where do we go from here?
Doc
No problem Doc we got it. If you have the cowl measure the lenght
of it to the prop flange hole from the back while
it is sitting on the floor pointing up. Most are 39 inches.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Don't have the cowl yet. Should I order it now? Conversion Concepts
says to
order the O-320 as it is longer than the O-360; but this is kind of
moot as
Vans doesn't approve of the O-360 in the 9. What do you think of the
James
cowl? All I have heard is that it is superior aerodynamically and
results in
~ 7 kt. speed improvement.
Doc
The James cowl is good. Better for the rotary.
We will need the length. I might have it. I'll look
around. Yep I have it. It is 37 inches long.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Doc
My C of G on the RV7 came out one American inch behind the usual O
360
position with CC mount,James Cowl and Tracy box. There is lots to cut
off
the James Cowl, so you could position your engine further forward.
Ian.
Thanks Ian for the good news. Lighter is better.
Jerry Hey will be building the mount. You get this, Jerry?
Doc
Yes,I am looking forward to seeing how Paul handles the nose gear
socket. I am sure he will come up with a good design. This will be
the first time for me to build an SBeam mount with the nose gear a
part of the mount. The nose gear structure should be a good place for
the rear strut. Jerry
It will look exactly like this mount except the following
tubes will be kept.
The best way to do it and probably cheaper in the long run
and much more likely to fit perfectly is start with a Lyc
mount and cut way what you are not going to use.
--
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
I agree that would be easiest. Jerry
I note that James specifies a cowl for the 6, 7, & 9. No As, all tail wheel.
I sent them email asking if that is what they meant or if it was a simple
oversight - but have not yet heard back. And for $950 just for fiberglass
very pricey imo. Pricey enough to make me start thinking about fabing one
from scratch. And I note that James didn't design it. So what does that mean
for the aerodynamics?
That great gaping cooling scoop makes me wonder. Reminds me of the changes
Mooney made to make the 231 go fast. They closed up the cooling inlets to
less than half what was on the M30 (super21) that I owned. That and other
aerodynamic tweaks netted 50 MPH. Same engine.
Doc
I am starting to agree with you on the James cowl.
I can supply section dwgs that you can cut out for templates
if you want to do your own. I'll submit a 3D and you can make
changes until you see something you like.
BTW You might need that size hole to cool at takeoff and climb speeds
Doc. Not to worry however it will have very little drag effect
at cruise IF you install cowl flaps on your RV9A.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
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