>>>>>>> Jerry,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I just talked to Ken at Vans. Stonewall. Call back next
>>>>>>> Monday. I don't
>>>>>>> have access to those drawings. The rotary has too many
>>>>>>> problems. Just
>>>>>>> get the mount from us and match drill it to the firewall.
>>>>>>> etc., etc.,
>>>>>>> etc. The one thing that he did say was that he thought the
exact
>>>>>>> location wasn't too critical. 'If you get it within 1/4" it
will
>>>>>>> probably be all right.' This from an "engineer!"
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Rats.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I notice that Conversion Concepts offsets the engine 1 degree.
>>>>>>> To the
>>>>>>> right for the RWS RD-1C 2.85 redrive. But that doesn't help
much.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Where do we go from here?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Doc
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> No problem Doc we got it. If you have the cowl measure the
lenght
>>>>>>> of it to the prop flange hole from the back while
>>>>>>> it is sitting on the floor pointing up. Most are 39 inches.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Don't have the cowl yet. Should I order it now? Conversion
>>>>>> Concepts says to
>>>>>> order the O-320 as it is longer than the O-360; but this is
>>>>>> kind of moot as
>>>>>> Vans doesn't approve of the O-360 in the 9. What do you think
>>>>>> of the James
>>>>>> cowl? All I have heard is that it is superior aerodynamically
>>>>>> and results in
>>>>>> ~ 7 kt. speed improvement.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Doc
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The James cowl is good. Better for the rotary.
>>>>>> We will need the length. I might have it. I'll look
>>>>>> around. Yep I have it. It is 37 inches long.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Doc
>>>>> My C of G on the RV7 came out one American inch behind the usual
>>>>> O 360
>>>>> position with CC mount,James Cowl and Tracy box. There is lots
>>>>> to cut off
>>>>> the James Cowl, so you could position your engine further
forward.
>>>>>
>>>>> Ian.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks Ian for the good news. Lighter is better.
>>>>
>>>> Jerry Hey will be building the mount. You get this, Jerry?
>>>>
>>>> Doc
>>>
>>> Yes,I am looking forward to seeing how Paul handles the nose gear
>>> socket. I am sure he will come up with a good design. This will be
>>> the first time for me to build an SBeam mount with the nose gear a
>>> part of the mount. The nose gear structure should be a good
place for
>>> the rear strut. Jerry
>>>
>>>
>>> It will look exactly like this mount except the following
>>> tubes will be kept.
>>>
>>> The best way to do it and probably cheaper in the long run
>>> and much more likely to fit perfectly is start with a Lyc
>>> mount and cut way what you are not going to use.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
>>
>> I agree that would be easiest. Jerry
>>
>> -----------------------------------------
>> Here are some jpgs of the RV6A motor mount.
>> Not final yet. The beam is not shown. Bushings
>> too close together.
>>
>> Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
>
> Looks good to me.
>
> With the rad under the engine, how do you change oil?
>
> Doc
>
> From the back (lowest) side of the oil pan.
>
> Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Pump it out via the dipstick tube.
Ian
-----------------------------------------------------------------
A flexible oil line from the pan bottom to the side where it is
accessible. Your choice of plug, stopper, or valve on the end. The
easier it is to change the oil, the more apt it will be changed.
Joel
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