Subject: Custom Components
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 9/20/2006, 3:49 PM
To: AA-me

     > >
     >> I just talked to Bruce at Custom Components
     >> 253 272 5554 and he apologized for not calling you back Doc.
     >> His email is cuscom@foxinternet.com
     >> He said he would sell you the bottom parts.
     >> --
     >> Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
     >
     > Doc, even with the gear mount, we will still need to know   the thrust
     > line. Maybe Bruce can give thrust line measurements since  he is
     > building the entire Lycoming mount. Just relate the thrust   line to
     > the top corner attach points of his mount. If you draw a line
     > between them, the thrust line will be x inches below that   line. We
     > can take it from there. Jerry
     >
     >
     > I have the thrust line Jerry. Doc sent me a bunch of drawings.
     > I have a drawing on the Lyc mount.
     >
     > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

    Bruce from Custom Components called. Said he would sell me  the  partial
    (lower only, with nose gear struts & mount, no dynafocal ring, no
    uppers)
    for $200 + $35 shipping. I said I would mail him a check and  a  letter
    tomorrow. Might get it done today. He said he would put it on   the list,
    would be 2 or 3 weeks. He also mumbled something about needing
    gussets and
    some other stuff I either didn't hear or understand. Not sure   if he
    meant he
    would supply them or you would have to design and Jerry would   have to
    fabricate. He also said the nose gear socket will need to be   reamed
    to fit
    the nose gear. I have the mains but not the nose, so I don't know
    what the
    diameter is. I have a 1.00" reamer but the next biggest is only
    7/16" so if
    it is not 1" I would hope Jerry could do it. I don't know what is
    involved
    or what the tolerances are. I assume the socket tube needs to   be reamed
    because of the welding process and tube tolerances. I really   hate doing
    things when I don't know all the factors involved: one of the   reasons I
    chose an RV. If it just involves sticking a reamer in the tube  and
    cleaning
    it out, I could do it, even if I had to buy the proper size   reamer.
    If it
    involves ensuring that the axis of the hole is properly  aligned, I
    am not
    sure I have the equipment or know-how to do it.

    He said he and Paul had talked. That gave me some comfort. In my
    experience
    talk and hand waving without written documentation results in   things
    falling
    in the cracks and a mad scramble at the end to cover the gaps.
    Frequently a
    kludge, err, poorly. That is why I respect you and your
    newsletter-list: you
    provide written documentation, drawings and pictures.

    As you can tell from the foregoing I am really nervous about   everything
    coming together with no misunderstandings or missing pieces.  And I
    trust you
    and your judgment Paul. That is why I am willing to embark on
    pioneering a
    new airplane application for the rotary. I can see why you would
    only need
    the lower stuff Bruce mentioned. But verbal only descriptions   make me
    nervous. If it isn't too much trouble, could you email Bruce that
    drawing of
    the 6A mount with the pieces you want/don't want so marked?

    Thanks to all,

    Doc

    Sure Doc.

    Paul Lamar



Doc,
The gear leg sockets are reamed to fit the gear legs, it must be done
after the welding. I sent mine away to the guy who does it for   Vans. You
should have your gear legs when you do the reaming so you can  check  for
fit.

Brian Trubee

Thanks for the tip Brian. Who did the reaming?

Doc,  I have done this many times cleaning up  the gear leg sockets
for the Tailwind.  It is just a clean up process removing slag and
very slight out of round condition caused by the welding.  I usually
use a small stone on the electric drill followed by a flapper made of
shop cloth.Needed would be either the gear leg or a piece of shafting
of the same o.d.   No reamer required unless the socket is undersized
to begin with.  In that case, it is best to send to off the be done
with a reamer prior to sending it to me.  Paul I like the tubing
arrangement you have drawn.  Can we run the rear strut to the lower
end of the socket?  Jerry

Yes I think so. Very very good idea Jerry. Feeds the nose gear loads
directly into the reacting mass namely the engine. Something like
this.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

Great,  if I can build the oil pan or have Ed do it, we can deliver
quite a nice package to Doc: s-beam, rear strut, wedge oil pan . Just
bolt it on and a lot of major headaches  are gone.  This is a big
deal in my world.  Jerry


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