>  > I don't think you want sandwich on this part. Sandwich is  > stiff up to a certain load but after that it collapses.  > I think you want solid carbon fiber. The part is relatively  > small, unlike a wing skin, so the weight penalty will be little.  >  > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.  >  > Paul,  > I think you could go either way. Manufacture of a sandwich part is  > harder to set up though so a straight layup would be an easier way to  > get going. So back to fire hazards; do we think the weight savings and  > manufacturability is risk justified? Because I built an Autoclave we  > could make these in.  > Bill Jepson  >  > Do you have a vacuum bag set up? Autoclaving these things  > would be great. I guess you could shield it with fibrefrax and  > and thin SS if you were worried about fire. Lots of  > composite firewalls out there.  > -- Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.  >  > Vacuum bagging is no problem, we do it on almost every part we make.  > I don't think i'm too worried about fire personally. The general layout  > is important.  > The spacers need to be inserted prior to thermal cure. The mold would  > need to have  > the sides needed for a motor mount built in. This part might be best  > done male-molded.  > The vacuum bagging would give a super finish anyway.  > Bill  >  > Good idea on the built in motor mount. We considered this  > a long time ago sand cast in aluminum but the heavy weight was  > discouraging.  >  > Carbon fiber would be another matter entirely.  > Here are a few old dwgs. It would have to be redesigned  > for carbon fiber. I'll work on it.  >  > -- > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.  
OK here are some suggestions. Rhino is giving me trouble with the fillets so it needs loading into Solid Works for filleting. Fillets on the outer curve should be up to 1.5 inches where possible. It has several degrees of draft so it can be removed from the mold. It will also need a few hand installed internal bulkheads to stiffen it up here and there. Generally I think 1/8 inch thick would be thick enough. The green bolts are 10 mm as I recall. The others are a 1/4 inch to bolt on Tracy's PSRU.  
Starter shown is the common Mazda 2nd gen RX7. Other starters will work by cutting the right holes in the right places.  
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.  
Jarret I got it in SW but I forgot how to fillet. Give me some hints :)  
Tony you can send these off to Dave for his comments.  
-- Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

OH sorry Paul, i didn't follow at first. Go to the solids menu on the
left or to tools look for the block with the green rounded edge. That is
the fillet tool.
Bill

I see it but the menus on the left are not lit up.

I must be in the wrong mode.

BTW the iges I sent does not have the flange union ed with
the main bell. How do I union in SW?