Subject: composite bell housing
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 10/2/2006, 11:25 PM
To: AA-me



> > >   I don't think you want sandwich on this part. Sandwich is
> > >   stiff up to a certain load but after that it collapses.
> > >   I think you want solid carbon fiber. The part is relatively
> > >   small, unlike a wing skin, so the weight penalty will be little.
> > >
> > >   Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
> > >
> > > Paul,
> > >  I think you could go either way. Manufacture of a sandwich part is
> > > harder to set up though so a straight layup would be an easier way to
> > > get going. So back to fire hazards; do we think the weight savings and
> > > manufacturability is risk justified? Because I built an Autoclave we
> > > could make these in.
> > > Bill Jepson
> > >
> > > Do you have a vacuum bag set up? Autoclaving these things
> > > would be great. I guess you could shield it with fibrefrax and
> > > and thin SS if you were worried about fire. Lots of
> > > composite firewalls out there.
> > > -- Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
> > >
> > > Vacuum bagging is no problem, we do it on almost every part we make.
> > > I don't think i'm too worried about fire personally. The general layout
> > > is important.
> > > The spacers need to be inserted prior to thermal cure. The mold would
> > > need to have
> > > the sides needed for a motor mount built in. This part might be best
> > > done male-molded.
> > > The vacuum bagging would give a super finish anyway.
> > > Bill
> > >
> > > Good idea on the built in motor mount. We considered this
> > > a long time ago sand cast in aluminum but the heavy weight was
> > > discouraging.
> > >
> > > Carbon fiber would be another matter entirely.
> > > Here are a few old dwgs. It would have to be redesigned
> > > for carbon fiber. I'll work on it.
> > >
> > > -- > > > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
> > > > OK here are some suggestions. Rhino is giving me trouble with
> > the fillets so it needs loading into Solid Works for filleting.
> > Fillets on the outer curve should be up to 1.5 inches where
> > possible. It has several degrees of draft so it can be removed
> > from the mold. It will also need a few hand installed internal
> > bulkheads to stiffen it up here and there. Generally I think
> > 1/8 inch thick would be thick enough. The green bolts are 10 mm
> > as I recall. The others are a 1/4 inch to bolt on Tracy's PSRU.
> > > > Starter shown is the common Mazda 2nd gen RX7. Other starters will
> > work by cutting the right holes in the right places.
> > > > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
> > > > Jarret I got it in SW but I forgot how to fillet.
> > Give me some hints :)
> > > > Tony you can send these off to Dave for his comments.
> > > > -- > > O.k. I'll do that, and lets see what he says.
> > Tony
> > OK Bill, I 'll send you a zipped iges by private
> > -- > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.


O.k. Dave has them. "Holy Sh*&#"!!!!!!!!! I can't believe
this might actually happen. lets see what he comes up with.
His work is so good I just hope that the price doesn't break
the bank.

Tony


Tony,
Please ask Dave if he can do bismaleimide resin.

-- 
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.



Done!

waiting for response from Dave. I asked him also about heat
soak in F-1 if that was ever a problem, and what type of resin
he was currently using in his hot sections.

Tony

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