> Paul, what happened to the little prop dyno that you had mounted on
> a trailer? I have been waiting for you to use it, to see what
> changes if any you would recommend, before building one for
> myself. Could you put Mark's engine on it? BTW, I have no need
> for the trailer version. Mine could be solid mounted bolted down to
> the shop floor. Jerry
>
> The house project is eating all my spare time.
> Extend the bottom legs further up under the engine
> to balance it better. You don't need the static thrust
> measuring capability as it can be misleading.
> Rather than the bathroom scale there are other ways
> of measuring the torque. A calibrated garage door
> spring is one of them. Use a shock absorber to damp
> out any oscillation.
>
> Let me know if you need any advice.
>
> Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

I need LOTS of advice. Can I supply resistance without running a
prop? I have heard of driving a pump. Would it be belt driven off
the prop flange? Jerry

-------------------------------------------------------

Do you have a 200 HP water pump? Takes a lot of v belts to
transfer 200 HP. Do you have a lake on the property?
-- Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

--------------------------------------------------------
Jerry,
What you have described is a water brake dynomometer. This is what has
been used in the past. The only problem with them is something Paul
noticed at Mazdatrix, if non-adjustable they offer rather more
resistance at low RPM than might be normal. Many of the dynos used a
bypass valve that could be opened until the engine was "run up" that
could be dialed in as RPMs increased. You still need a pump capable of
handling the power though. Most dynos this style take a direct input
from the crankshaft using a u-joint and flange. FWIW.
Bill Jepson


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