> > > Paul
> > >
> > > I want to put the stock tension bolts back in my motor but I don't > > > want to make a mess squirting a bunch of silicone in the holes to keep > > > them from vibrating. There has to be a better way. what about using > > > heat shrink tubing? maybe I can build it up so the tension bolts fit > > > snug in there respective holes.
> > >
> > > Tony
> > >
> > > Sounds like it is worth a try. Try a test sample. Heat it
> > > in the oven to about 220 F and see what happens to the
> > > heat shrink tubing. Silicone is good to 500 F.
> > > > Paul Lamar
> > > > Tony,
> > You don't need to squirt a bunch of silicone in the holes.  Just put
> > about a 2 turn spiral bead along  the bolt length and push it through.
> > This insures that there is more on one end than the other.  The purpose
> > is to interfere with resonance mode vibrations that could possibly
> > occur.  It doesn't take much silicone to do that.
> > > > Aubrey
> > > Aubrey
> > I'm very aware of the reason for doing it. What I don't like though is the
> mess it makes when you have to take your motor apart not to mention,
> (from what I understand) the silicone makes taking apart your motor
> alot more difficult. Of course, this is secound hand information, it
> sounds like it 's a plausible issue and it came from what I would
> consider a reliable source. Seems like some heat shrink tubing will
> do the trick and is much cleaner. I may just make some sort of mold
> that I can squirt the silicone into that I can just slip it over the
> tension bolt. Any ideas ?
> maybe McMaster has something I can use.
> > Tony

O.K.  I think I've got it. I'll cover the tension bolt with
silicone insert the bolt into a piece of thin wall alluminum
tubing, then I'll insert the tension bolt into the engine, which
now has a nice smooth outer alluminum finish. That should work
and it will look good too even though I can't see it. They will
pull out with no mess if I need to tear down the engine. I woke
up at 3:00am this morning and wrote it down I had a dream about it.
I need to get a life LOL :)

Tony

That is a pretty good idea Tony. Now the devil is in the details.
Where do you get exactly the right ID/OD of tubing.
Turning it on a lathe 18 inches long is not easy.
-- 

Paul
Why does it have to be one continuous piece? I'll bet I could put 3 or 4 1in pieces along the tension bolt and that would do the trick as Aubrey said, it doesn't take a whole lot to get the job done. So why not just make 1in aluminum spacers?  That might work. I think that Mcmaster has something that will be the right size. The only dim you really need is the I.D. of the holes in the castings. The I.D. of the spacers can be filled with sillicone or reamed to the correct I.D. I'll bet Mcmaster has some unthreaded standoffs that will work great and they are pretty cheap as well. I'm at work but if someone could get me the I.D. of the casting holes I'll look online at Mcmaster and see what I can find that will work.

Tony

Well I suspect the casting holes are not aligned bored
so they may vary in ID. I don't have any housings here
so somebody measure some holes. Adding a few lead or tungsten
spacers would break up the resonant frequency.