Subject: E-Shaft Bearing
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 11/1/2006, 2:36 PM
To: AA-me



    > On the needle [thrust] bearing in the end of the e-shaft, is it
   necessary
    > to
    > remove the outer race? I dug out the bearings and cage but am
   having a
    > time
    > with the outer
    > race.   Karibian
    >
    > Which part are you having trouble with?
    >
    > --
    > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
    >
    >  I'm referring to the little needle bearings in the flywheel end
   of the E
    > shaft that Tracy said had to be removed. He said he sometimes had to
    > delicately grind it out. Karibian
    >
    > Those are not the thrust bearings. Those are the manual
    > transmission input shaft pilot bearing. Yes it must be
    > removed to use Tracy's input shaft. Probably a Dremel
    > tool will work.
    >
    > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

   There is another mechanics trick to help in situations like this:
   Make a nice fitting punch with a diameter just a few thou smaller
   than the ID of the bearing, bushing, or shell, to be removed.
   Fill the cavity with grease.
   Push the tool  into the grease, at least enough to get it aligned.
   Smack it sharply with a hammer.
   Bingo the shell will be hydraulic'd backwards, and out.
   Repeat as necessary

   -Reeves




   Save me some typing Paul (it is painfully slow and you are sooo
   organized)
   and post one of you explanations of grease filling and dowel hammering.

   John

   Basically what Reeves is saying: you are converting the hole
   to a hydraulic cylinder. The punch is the piston.
   The grease is the fluid.
   The open end bearing shell looks like a short piece of tubing.
   It is a light press fit in the hole.
   Since the bearing shell surrounds the piston forcing the piston
   into the bearing shell with a hammer puts high pressure on
   the inner edge of the open end bearing shell forcing the bearing
   shell up and out of the hole.

   Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

   Just got my new xpaint working.

   Here is a diagram on Reeves's trick.
   Red is the punch.
   Blue is the grease.
   Green is the needle bearing shell.

   --
   Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.



My experience has been that the blue needs to be thicker than what you
show in your drawing.  (Everyone's a critic..  :) )  Basically fill the
whole cavity with grease (there will be bubbles and air pockets).  Slide
your implement in there and give it a whack.

When we were a dedicated Volvo family, we kept around a spare input
shaft from a junk transmission for this purpose.  It's a perfect fit in
the pilot bearing.  It's about 8 inches long, and is easy to hang onto.
It's also useful for aligning the clutch disc when installing the
pressure plate.  Of course, this brings up the other perfect implement
for the job..  A clutch aligment tool.  Seems like they often have a
little loop around the tail which you might have to bend out of the way
or cut off.  But, it too is a perfect fit in the pilot bearing.  They
are usually plastic though, so might not be up to too much vigorous
hammering.


Matt-



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