Subject: Long needle valve.
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 12/7/2006, 2:02 PM
To: AARotary Engine


     Paul,

     Nothing wrong with your idea, but who is going to make that for you?     You have to pay someone to machine the needle and other parts. It's     easier -- and maybe cheaper -- to just buy a valve off the shelf.     Parker is part of Parker Hannifin which makes a lot of aircraft     parts, so getting one is easy. (I don't think think this valve is     meant for aircraft use though, but it is high quality.)

     http://www.parker.com/ead/cm2.asp?cmid=3092

     Regards,

     Gordon.

     Yes but nothing I have seen off the shelf so far is near
     as workable as this design. The cost is cheap. I'll front
     a bunch of SS needles made on an NC lath. Cost probably
     less than $5 each. Or people with lathes can make them
     themselves.

     The rest of it is made from SS tube and SS 37 degree flare 1/8th
     JIC fittings.

     There are no pivots or levers to add backlash or slop.

     Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

     Paul,

     There is no slop or levers with the extension rod either. You just
     have a knob you turn for leaning. The Parker valve even has a panel
     nut -- you just drill a hole in the firewall, take off the knob and     attach the valve to the firewall with the panel nut. Run the     extension to the instrument panel and reattach the knob there. Done.

     How would you seal your needle valve? You have to have some way to     keep fuel under pressure from squirting out the needle tube. Look at     the drawing of the Parker valve -- it uses a packing gland, a     packing washer and PTFE packing to accomplish the sealing. It would     cost more than $5 to replicate all that from scratch.

     Regards,

     Gordon.

-----------------------
  O rings.
Paul Lamar

------------------------
Paul,

The moving valve could be made of larger diameter rod. On one side a tapered
flat 3 inches long could be ground such that the deepest end of the flat
would be towards the fire wall. (This can be made by holding a brass rod in
a steel vice at a slight angle to the horizontal and using a hand held angle
grinder, gently touching the vice jaws) The tapered flat would work through
the orifice. Pushing the valve spindle in from the panel would then increase
fuel flow. Is an orifice needed? Fuel entering from the side of the tube
would be cut off by the valve rod, and only flow when the flat is in an
appropriate position. This is back to your original design of tapered slot
on the slide throttle.
Colin Smith

I'll have to think about this for awhile. Can you work up
a sketch?

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

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