That Denso alternator on Ebay is "4" inches in diameter, not 3, and
comes in at 6 pounds. I'll be able to use it only if I don't have to go
to high pressure fuel injection.  Karibian

I got two of those, they are just beauties for carb setups, as my single rotor is.

Richard Sohn
N2071U

You've got a 1-rotor?  Whose e-shaft are you using, what's the all-up
weight and power, and what did it cost to modify?

Keith Wood

I have been working on the one-rotor for a few years now. The first run on
the test stand was in July 2003. This was a prove-of-principle
configuration. The latest version, which ran about 2 month ago, had several
final design features.
The next testing will be done with the final design of the Al-Cast Iron
compound side housing.
I modified my own e-shaft. My mod results in a lighter e-shaft than the ones
I have seen available.
The FF weight is 175 lb and power is estimated to be 100+hp at 7500RPM with
12A rotor housings and P-Port.
I can't say anything about cost, because I do most of the work myself, and
my own labor is exorbitantly expensive.
The only goal I have at this time, is to get the engine where it is flyable,
and put it in my Avid Flyer.

You can find more info and pictures in the ACRE archives.

Richard Sohn
N2071U

-----------------------------------

OK here are a few more pictures.

Richard is a multi-talented guy doing all his own
machining and pattern making not to mention building
his own house and work shops.

> Paul Lamar

----------------------------------------------
I was hoping it was ready to rock and roll.

You're getting that kind of power out of a 12A with a motorcycle carb?

Whose reduction are you using?  It looks like a Notax (er, Rotax I mean).

I've been kind of figuring on a 13B 1-rotor with Atkins' e-shaft.  I had
wondered about a carb with a short intake, like you're using.  Weight is
a major factor, I need to match power/weight with an O-200.

BTW, when I was thinking about Geo engines, they were talking about a
little John Deere alternator that weighted very little.

You can knock a lot of weight out of your starter by taking the windings
out of the case, drilling a bunch of holes through it (or milling big
"windows").  Make sure you don't take out where the windings attach.
Once that's done, put the windings back and then paint it or wrap it in
tape.  That won't take out any appreciable strength, but you can take
off about 1/2 of the case weight that way.  The only reason it's so
heavy in the first place is because it's cheaper to make it that way and
weight isn't an issue with cars.  All you really need is enough to
securely hold the windings and each end of the shaft.

Keith Wood

The redrive is a HIRTH, rated for up to 140hp.
There is a significant weight difference between an e-shaft with the
original MAZDA taper vs a 10:1 30mm as I am using. I will have the numbers
later.
I have one of those John Deer alternators. It is permanent magnet, which
makes it unregulated, and it has no cooling. I consider it unsuitable for AC
use.

Richard Sohn
N2071U


The Rotary Engine NewsLetter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site. http://www.rotaryeng.net
Copyright 1998-2006 All world wide rights reserved.