>> Paul, here are some photos of the S-Beam, powder coated, with the
>> Barry Mounts.  It is complete and ready to install.   Also, there is
>> one shot of the pan which I just welded today.  It is bolted to a
>> steel plate to help control warping.  This pan is what I will be
>> shipping with all the S-beams except that the two tabs on the sides
>> are a special item for this particular installation. The pan will
>> also be powder coated and about that I wonder if I should just have
>> the outside of the pan done or the inside as well.  Mazda certainly
>> does paint the inside of their steel pans.  What do you think? Plain
>> aluminum looks good!  I almost hate to paint it at all.   This the
>> third pan I built in a month while working out various issues.  The
>> first two were just learners.       Jerry
>
>
>> the Schertz beam looks great.
>> I would not bother to powder coat the pan. Anodize if you
>> want to spend the money.
>> Paul Lamar
>
>
> Jerry
>
> Have you thought about break bending two sides of the pan and only
> welding the other two instead of welding all four sides? might go
> a bit quicker certainly will save you the weld time.
>
> Tony

Tony,  I did a test bend as  you suggested but was unhappy with the
results In that the two sides were not exactly the same height after
bending.   No CNC on my  home made  manual brake.  There is so much
welding on the pan, even if the sides were folded, that not much is
gained.    Jerry


Jerry

Did you try to bend the sides by eye? say with a scribed line?
if so I can see where you may not have the sides the same length.
Try setting up some stops. I don't know what your break looks like
if it's an up or down break but I assume either way the material
slides into the break and the break bar is lowered, if  you can
bolt a piece of flat stock to the break bed and use it as a material
stop, you'll bend that box exactly the same way every time
say  +/- .010  that is of course if your material is cut
initially to the correct spec.  Just trying to help, Great work!
on the oil pan.

Tony

That works great in theory, however not so much in practice, the pan is
tapered from front to back, so each time you go to break a part, you'd only
do 1 break and then reset the back stop. The only way to do this part w/
any level of precision is to use a CNC differential back gauge which will
automaticaly set the back gauge for each step of the breaking process.It
might be more feasible to break the front and back panels, however they
appear to be of different lengths so thats not a cake walk either.

Jarrett [I've designed parts like this, only to 'hear it' from the boys in
the back.. Hence, I've learned these subtle things only by experiance :-) ]



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