Paul, here are few pictures from my new muffler construction. The
flange has two stubs with slip joints 0.065  SS that are pulled
together with strong springs (not shown). The perforated tube is
welded only on one side to the can. The other side fits into a slip
socket welded to the lid, so it is allowed to float.  Sofar works
very well , but I need more time to see how it will hold?

Bulent.

I assume that is 321 SS. Nice workmanship.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the perforated tube
will run white hot, melt and eventually puke it self out of the
can and out the through the prop. Tom Jordon had something like that
on a Limo EZ.  One could stand behind the prop with the engine
at full chat and look down the exhaust pipe. It was like
looking at a very bright light bulb in there :)

Try to get some sort of air cooling tube down the center.
I'll send some 3D's shortly.

Also put some sort of safety strap on the whole muffler
so if worse comes to worse the whole muffler won't go through
the prop taking out a blade.

***********************************************

Here are some pictures and 3D's. Tom changed it to the 8 and
11 pics but I don't know the status on that config.
The 45 degree joint does not look like it will work for
long. What is needed there is a four inch center line
radius 321 SS 45 degree  bend instead.

The Bill Jepson/Ed Klepeis muff.  needs a a cold air tube from the
front opening as relatively cool exhaust gases flow out the front
cooling tube (pusher) at idle. Once the airplane is moving air
will flow into the cooling tube if it is connected to a ram air
source and it will work fine. The last dwg seems to be the
overall best way of doing the cooling tube trick as you don't
have to worry about exhaust gases exiting at idle.

I think you were off the list when all this happened.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

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