>> >>> Hi,
     >> >>>
     >> >>>
     >> >>> Some questions:
     >> >>>
     >> >>> Any advantage to using an under drive pulley in an aircraft
     >> >>> installation?  Would it help with the higher constant RPM's
    I will be
     >> >>> running?
     >> >>>
     >> >>> I have to move my alternator on my Renesis engine to the
    side, rather
     >> >>> than have it on top as it comes, when I do so I will have an
     >> >>> interference problem with the pulley belt and the crank
    angle sensor.
     >> >>> Can I use washers or a plate to move all the pulleys out to
    eliminate
     >> >>> the problem? Would there be any concerns doing this?
     >> >>>
     >> >>> Does anyone know of a good oil filter relocation kit for the
    Renesis
     >> >>> engine?
     >> >>>
     >> >>>
     >> >>> Thanks,
     >> >>> K11
     >> >>>
     >> >>> Paul Kvernplassen
     >> >>> Building a GlaStar in Alaska
     >> >>> Paul
     >>
     >> Paul also try to fit a idler pulley when you move the
     >> alternator. That will give you more wrap and you won't need
     >> to space out the pulleys.
     >>
     >> Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
     >
     >
     > Paul, an idler pulley sounds like a good idea....  do you have a
     > suggestion for where in the loop it would be best?  Also for
    Ian.... I
     > have not seen side mounts for the Renesis.  I have only seen it
    for the
     > RX-7.  I don't know if it would be easier to modify one of those
    or try
     > and build one myself.
     >
     > Thanks for all the suggestions,
     > K11
     >
     > Right about here.
     > Side mounts are easy to make. Make out of 4130 sheet
     > as aluminum tends to fatigue and crack. This one is made
     > from angle iron.
     > The rear pivot on the alt has near zero load so any small
     > bracket or clip will work fine. The load is on the belt end.
     > --
     > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

    K11. (funny name, still you have to part bonkers to fit a rotary)
    In the picture that's where my coils were when they burnt out. Mount
    the
    alternator there and you don't need spacers or an idler. Mount the coil
    packs in an icebox in the cabin along with the fuel filter.

    Ian Beadle.



The stock water-pump pulley arrangement is inappropriate for constant
high RPM ,the biggest drawback is the stock water pumps are designed to
operate at relatively low speeds, as a result,the standard impeller WILL
cavitate-churn coolant rather than push it through the cooling system
when spun by stock pulleys at high revs(5, 500and6.000rpm).The water
hoses are a clue to whats going on inside the waterpump,When the
impellers starts to cavitate,the hoses  jump around due to turbuence
caused by cavitation and the resulting aerated coolant,Racing
beat/mazmart/mazda offer a number of pulley combinations that will slow
water-pump speed suffiiently to avoid cavitation and  also slow down the
alternator,as the alternator is overdriven by appropximately 33%-if the
engine is turning at 6.000rpm the alternator is spinning at 8.000rpm,

robert pay rotary owner from the 1970s/02/07,

I think that is an urban myth Robert. Not what we found with
our water pump dyno. No cavitation at up to 7000 RPM as I recall.
You need a lot of water flow to cool an aircraft engine
as it runs 150 HP all the time. A car is lucky to see 40 HP
all the time. Might be true on an 11,000 RPM race car engine.
It will cavitate if you let the water level in the block get too
low.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

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