Subject: Auto Conversion - Conversion
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 3/8/2007, 8:06 AM
To: AARotary Engine


      >> One more question Joe.
      >> Was the EM2 or the Microtec controlling ignition?
      >>
      >> Paul
      >
      >
      > I have the MicroTech. That's what Atkins sells with his engine
      > package. It seems to be a reasonably complete and robust system.
      >
      > Here's a picture of the broken sparkplug.
      >
      > Joe Hull
      > Redmond/Seattle WA, Cozy-Mark-IV - 71hrs
      >
      > Thanks for the picture Joe.
      >
      > I think a slightly smaller gap might prevent the broken ceramic
      > from dropping below the ground electrodes.
      >
      >
      > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
      >
      > That is a different spark plug from the standard 2nd gen
      > BUR7EQ-L/BUR9EQ-T? Looks more like the spark plug used on the first
      > gens?
      > Perry Mick

     Thanks Perry.

     Jim Mederer and Dave Lemon, have you seen this failure before.
     The supposition is the ceramic insulator failure took out the
     apex seal. Is this a common problem in racing engines?
     --
     Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

Hi Paul,

     A broken plug insulator usually means the plug was too hot,
detonation - or both.

Jim Mederer

Thanks Jim.

I know it is not a common problem in street engines as there
have been over a million Mazda rotary engines sold and if this
were or is a common problem I am sure Mazda  not have sold a
million engines. This plug was from a normally aspirated engine
with 35 hours of high power running so detonation was unlikely.

So keep checking your plugs guys when the engine is new
to be sure they are not overheating and the plugs are of the right
heat range.

It is the duty of the engine builder to put heat range plugs in
the engine that are consistent with its intended use. If the plugs
prove to be too cold than adjustments can be made later.

Jim, given this scenario what plug numbers would you recommend?

-----------------------------------------------------

Here is a plug color chart to check your plugs.

Paul Lamar

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Verrill: Plug Color Chart
Normal
wpe5E.jpg (7334 bytes)
Combustion deposits are slight and not heavy enough to cause any detrimental effect on engine performance. Note the brown to greyish tan color, and minimal amount of electrode erosion which clearly indicates the plug is in the correct heat range and has been operating in a "healthy" engine.
Mechanical Damage
wpe4E.jpg (7777 bytes)
May be caused by a foreign object that has accidentally entered the combustion chamber. When this condition is discovered, check the other cylinders to prevent a recurrence, since it is possible for a small object to "travel" from one cylinder to another where a large degree of valve overlap exists. This condition may also be due to improper reach spark plugs that permit the piston to touch or collide with the firing end.
Oil Fouled
wpe32.jpg (6932 bytes)
Too much oil is entering the combustion chamber. This is often caused by piston rings or cylinder walls that are badly worn. Oil may also be pulled into the chamber because of excessive clearance in the valve stem guides. If the PCV valve is plugged or inoperative it can cause a build-up of crankcase pressure which can force oil and oil vapors past the rings and valve guides into the combustion chamber.
Overheated
wpe48.jpg (6196 bytes)
A clean, white insulator firing tip and/or excessive electrode erosion indicates this spark plug condition. k This is often caused by over advanced ignition, timing, poor engine cooling system efficiency (scale, stoppages, low level), a very lean air/fuel mixture, or a leaking intake manifold. When these conditions prevail, even a plug of the correct heat range will overheat.
Insulator Glazing
wpe4B.jpg (6293 bytes)
Glazing appears as a yellowish, varnish-like color. This condition indicates that spark plug temperatures have risen suddenly during a hard, fast acceleration period. As a result, normal combustion deposits do not have an opportunity to "fluff-off" as they normally do. Instead, they melt to form a conductive coating and misfire will occur.
Pre-Ignition
wpe42.jpg (6440 bytes)
Usually one or a combination of several engine operating conditions are the prime causes of pre-ignition. It may originate from glowing combustion chamber deposits, hot spots in the combustion chamber due to poor control of engine heat, cross-firing (electrical induction between spark plug wires), or the plug heat range is too high for the engine or its operating conditions.
Gap Bridging
wpe36.jpg (7368 bytes)
Rarely occurs in automotive engines, however, this condition is caused by similar conditions that produce splash fouling. Combustion deposits thrown loose may lodge between the electrodes, causing a dead short and misfire. Fluffy materials that accumulate on the side electrode may melt to bridge the gap when the engine is suddenly put under a heavy load.
Splash Fouled
wpe2B.jpg (6790 bytes)
Appears as "spotted" deposits on the firing tip of the insulator and often occurs after a long delayed tune-up. By-products of combustion may loosen suddenly when normal combustion temperatures are restored. During hard acceleration these materials shed from the piston crown or valve heads, and are thrown against the hot insulator surface.
Detonation
wpe45.jpg (7218 bytes)
This form of abnormal combustion has fractured the insulator core nose of the plug. The explosion that occurs in this situation apples extreme pressures on internal engine components. Prime causes include ignition time advanced too far, lean air/fuel mixtures, and insufficient octane rating of the gasoline.
Ash Fouled
wpe3D.jpg (7207 bytes)
A build-up of combustion deposits stemming primarily from the burning of oil and/or fuel additives during normal combustion ... normally non-conductive. When heavier deposits are allowed to accumulate over a longer mileage period, they can "mask" the spark, resulting in a plug misfire condition.
Carbon Fouled
wpe1F.jpg (6426 bytes)
Soft, black, sooty deposits easily identify this plug condition. This is most often caused by an over-rich, air/fuel mixture.
Check for a sticking choke, clogged air cleaner, or a carburetor problem - float level high, defective needle or seat, etc.
This may also be attributed to weak ignition voltage, an inoperative preheating system (carburetor intake air), or extremely low cylinder compression.
Worn
CD ROM $69.00
This plug has served its useful life and should be replaced. The voltage required to fire the plug has approximately doubled and will continue to increase with additional miles of travel. Even higher voltage requirements, as much as 100% above normal, may occur when the engine is quickly accelerated. Poor engine performance and a loss in fuel economy are traits of a worn spark
SOURCE: Champion Spark Plugs