A bad heat range spark plug can ruin your whole day and
           lead to loss of power and a broken apex seal. I have formated
           the thread on on this subject and uploaded it to the web site.
           Please read:http://www.rotaryeng.net/ignition.html

           "All about spark plugs for rotary engines."

           Thanks to Joe Hull for discovering this.

           If anybody has anything else to add please upload your
           thoughts.
           --
           Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.


       Ok,
       I've got a '93 13BREW, normally aspirated, with the original
   rotors-9/1
       compression. The spark plugs I have in it are NGKs  the leading
   splugs
       are BUR7EQ(Leading), and BUR9EQ(Trailing). They are brand new,
   and I
       think they are what are recommended as stock in the auto
   application.
       Should I go to BUR9EQ leading and BUR11EQ Trailing?

       Anyone?

       Thanks

       Brian Trubee

       I would use them while you are running the engine on the ground.
       When you get ready to fly install the colder plugs.
       http://www.rotaryeng.net/Spark-plugs/plugcolorchart2.html

       Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

   Why do you need them colder with a low compression ?

   Roderick Scotto

   Did NGK say that? I suspect you have it backwards.

   "Higher Compression Ratios/Forced Induction will elevate spark
   plug tip and in-cylinder temperatures"

   Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

when we increase compression, either through a turbo or o-ringing the
head, we use colder plugs as the chamber will be more hot due to a
higher compression. in this case a colder plug will reduce detonation
Roderick Scotto


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