Here a few photos of the first rear beam engine mount, finished and
ready to ship. Since it was the first, we had a lot to learn. It
did not go perfectly but I am pleased to say that we encountered no
fatal errors and we were able to respond with repairs and adjustments
to get to the final product. I absolutely love this engine mount.
It is very strong, light,and out of the way. Look at the room
around the engine for exhaust and intake and cooling. This engine
mount is designed around the concept of the belly rad with the intake
plenum above it.
Of the three photos, I like the last one particularly. Just bolt
on your engine -- no problems of any kind. Congratulations to Paul
for such a beautiful design. Jerry
P.S: bolting the S-beam in place is a bitch currently. I am making
a special tool to make it easier. Once the current crop of S-beams
is expended a new "EASY INSTALL" version will take their place. If
you want roll your own S-Beam engine mount I have 10 beams that I
will sell way below cost, $25.00 ea. They are drilled for the Barry
mount and have the aluminum spacer. Drilling to fit your pan flange
is your problem is all you got to do.
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I think Jerry is exaggerating the difficulties here.
The beam can be bolted on the engine while the engine
is up side down.
Then turn the engine right side up and bolt the beam the
rest of the motor mount.
That should be a piece of cake.
The 6 mm hex socket screws can be placed in the holes in the S beam
and stay there by gravity. Put two aligning 6 mm studs in two
of the 6 mm taped holes in the end housing to align the beam when
it is lowered.
You can see the holes and the screws no problem.
Lower the beam to about 1/8 inch above the end housing
with shims and and start the hex socket screws one at
a time. A hex socket screw has six sides. Six into 360 is 60
degrees the off set hex wrench will turn 120 degrees so you have a
bunch of chances to get it started. When all the hex socket screws are
started remove the 1/8th inch shims and tighten the screws.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Hi All,
What screws are used at the pan attachment. Since they are holding the
engine onto the mount (right?), it seems it would be important to use
the right ones. Anyone have a part number or item description? Thanks,
John Bell
20B Velocity
6 mm socket head cap screws from Mc Master car 8 mm long. 174,000 psi.
Each screw is good for about 7000 pounds tensile so 6 of them will
take 42,000 pounds. Or 120 G's if you smack the concrete up side
down after falling out of the air straight down and the ends of the
S beam
happen to hit two, 2 foot high columns so the engine can continue on
down. :)
I am not sure of the length. Jerry, are you using 8 mm or 10 mm
lengths?
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
My bolts are 6mm x 16 mm. I have not tested them in every hole but
in the ones I have tested they are not too long. Don't forget the pan
flange is .125 thick and I have also placed a small flat washer under
the head. Jerry
Yes I did forget the pan flange
You can get the bolts in 8, 10, 12, 14, 15 and 16 mm lengths.
No washers are needed inside the beam but they wont hurt if they
are no larger in diameter than the head of the bolt.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
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