Here a  few photos of the first rear beam engine mount, finished and
    ready to ship.  Since it was the first,  we had a lot to learn.  It
    did not go perfectly but I am pleased to say that we encountered no
    fatal errors and we were able to respond with repairs and adjustments
    to get to  the final product.   I absolutely love this engine mount.
    It is very strong,  light,and  out of the way.  Look at the room
    around the engine for exhaust and intake and cooling.  This engine
    mount is designed around the concept of the belly rad with the intake
    plenum above it.

    Of the three photos, I like the last one particularly.    Just bolt
    on  your engine -- no problems of any kind.   Congratulations to Paul
    for such a beautiful design.   Jerry

    P.S:  bolting the S-beam in place is a bitch currently.  I am making
    a special tool to make it easier.   Once the current crop of S-beams
    is expended a new "EASY INSTALL"  version will take their place.  If
    you want roll your own S-Beam engine mount  I have 10 beams that I
    will sell way below cost, $25.00 ea.  They are drilled for the Barry
    mount and have the aluminum spacer. Drilling to fit your pan flange
    is your problem is all you got to do.

    -------------------------------------------------

    I think Jerry is exaggerating the difficulties here.

    The beam can be bolted on the engine while the engine
    is up side down.

    Then turn the engine right side up and bolt the beam the
    rest of the motor mount.

    That should be a piece of cake.

    The 6 mm hex socket screws can be placed in the holes in the S beam
    and stay there by gravity. Put two aligning 6 mm studs in two
    of the 6 mm taped holes in the end housing to align the beam when
    it is lowered.

    You can see the holes and the screws no problem.

    Lower the beam to about 1/8 inch above the end housing
    with shims and and start the hex socket screws one at
    a time.  A hex socket screw has six sides. Six into 360 is 60
    degrees the off set hex wrench will turn 120 degrees so you have a
    bunch of chances to get it started. When all the hex socket screws are
    started remove the 1/8th inch shims and tighten the screws.

    Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.


Is there any reason a square/rectangular "boxed" steel tube would not
work as well/better than a bent beam?  Id guess it would be a bit
stronger/stiffer (still thinking of using the beam as an attach point
for the front wheel strut).  Downside- longer attach bolts to the
engine/pan.

MICHAEL D PARKER

-------------------------------------------
I assume you are talking about the front S beam. That is precisely how
they do the nose gear strut on the Questair Venture. The current
beam will work fine as the inertia loads are concentrated under the engine
and the engine is the main mass at the front of the airplane.
The light weight cowl and fuse go along for the ride.

However you need to stabilize the motor mount laterally at the rear of
the engine with a small horizontal ball jointed strut other wise the gyro prop torque
reaction "steers" the nose gear by deflectiong the main rubber bushings. The
Questair designer did not do that and it is a bit squirrelly during the ground
taxi, takeoff and landing.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

Reading the above it, it seems to me that we should be able to do something
similar with the RV9-A nose gear support structure. That would get rid of
that spider web of tubing around the lower middle of the firewall, provide
lots of extra space, probably be a whole lot lighter, and much easier to
fabricate. What do you think?

Doc Custer
Retired Software Engineer and sometime Audiologist

I agree.